For a dose of Italian glamor, consider Chalet del Sogno in the heart of Madonna di Campiglio.

Aptly named from the Italian for ‘dream’, Madonna di Campiglio’s Chalet del Sogno fulfills the mandate with all its heart. Not merely a hotel of aesthetic beauty, personal service, and incomparable location, a stay here opens the door to the many delights – some obvious, many hidden – of one of Italian skiing’s best-kept secrets.

In sync with its spectacular surroundings, the elegant Chalet del Sogno was built in 2006 by the charming Schiavon family, who remain in house day and night. Like its construction – beautiful pale fir, larch and pine, geothermal heating, full eco-certified credentials – this boutique hotel creates a glorious feeling of five-star, family-run luxury with hosts as connected as connected can be.

It comes with a great measure of resident expertise, too. Enthusiastic, articulate and multilingual, the incomparable Alberto Schiavon is eager to share the ins and outs of his beloved Madonna from his privileged ski-in, ski-out position. And where Alberto goes, so follow many of his fortunate guests. Check in and it’s very likely you’ll find yourself with a warm invitation to ski with this former Olympic snowboarder, long-time advisor to the International Ski Federation and Madonna buon vivente, adventuring into some of the most magical mountains anywhere. (For low-profile, high-reward getaways, Madonna has long attracted a stylish yet discreet fan base. From the discerning Emperor Franz Josef to today’s Milanese mavens of industry, the Dolomites’ geo-morphological magnificence have long made it an insider favorite.)

Inside Chalet del Sogno

A billet at Madonna’s Chalet del Sogno is, accordingly, the last word in Italian dolce vita. An intimate arrangement of just 18 rooms and suites over three floors, this five-star inn is decorated with local fauna and all the colors of our favorite Alpine flowers. Fir, larch, and Swiss pine throughout create a warm, comforting atmosphere. The sound-proof, wood-floor bedrooms and suites are elegantly furnished with spacious bathrooms with jet tub or shower, panoramic balconies, and traditional pretty hand-painted ceramic stoves. Summon room service for a decadent breakfast or luxuriate over a private dinner with views onto the twinkling mountainscape. Sink into a cosseting four-poster bed dressed in a feather duvet – the culmination of another glorious Madonna day.

Relax, Rejuvenate

After a day on the mountain, the Oasis Spa is a cocoon of relaxation. From an indulgent array of beauty treatments to its swimming pool with benefits: underwater counter currents, massage jets, even hydro-bikes. Splash beneath the ice fountain, then recline in an ergonomic lounger made of larch by local craftsmen. Perhaps you’d like to reserve the private bio-sauna, built for two and heady with the aroma of Alpine plants, or workout in the well-equipped gym under the guidance of an Olympic athlete. Then again, sometimes nothing else will do but a really great massage. It’s all here.

Dining well in Due Pini

A table inside the achingly romantic Due Pini – all crisp linens, sparkling stemware, warm wood-lined walls – is an event equal to its majestic mountainous surroundings. At the helm is passionate Chef Stefano Righetti, who first learned to cook at his grandmother’s side and eventually ascended to the world of the Michelin-starred restaurant, including as executive chef at Cipriani in Abu Dhabi.

The choice is great and temptation to order everything greater. Pike and trout from local rivers and lakes, pioppini mushrooms from the Campiglio forests, delicately cured meats from his own production. Quail is finished with licorice and lavender, venison with black tea and sweet potato, the pasta fallen from the fingers of angels. And the superb cellar of Italian wines might just provide the courage to ask about one of Chef Stefano’s more exotic offerings, “Castrated in Hay”. All part of the adventure.

Aperitivo Time: How to drink, Italian-style

“In Italian culture, we do have après ski of course – but aperitivo is something special,” the Madonna native explains. Keen for his guests to enjoy – properly enjoy – Italian mountain life, Alberto gently explains the lay of the land. Unlike in Austria where après ski is a raucous extension of the ski day, the Italian version is a distinct, more distinguished event. “You go home after your ski day to shower, change, and dress up. Then around 7pm you go for the aperitivo. It is,” he says simply, “more chic.” Alberto’s recommended destinations for this fine affair, combined with the requisite passeggiata through the snow-dusted car-free village, are the Bar Suisse, Caffè Alpi, Piano 54, or Café D’Oro. And after choosing the right place at the correct time, what to drink? Aperol Spritz continues to be popular, he notes – and then there is the wine. “We’re in a wine region, one known especially for its sparkling wines.” The renowned Ferrari vineyard is a short one hour from Campiglio and a glass or two of its benchmark bubbles it always a good idea. Saluti.

“Madonna is for lovers of atmosphere and quality, for those who want to fly low, not show off. They come to enjoy fine quality.”

And of course, the skiing

The hotel occupies pride of place just steps from the Spinale, one of the village’s three gondolas, so in just six minutes we’re lifted to the top of 100 miles of super-scenic pistes. The village of Madonna is nestled in a protected bowl and surrounded by dramatic snow-capped spires and four majestic peaks, so there’s typically a wide choice of aspects, weather, and conditions.

“One of the best things about it is that most of the slopes access the village,” Alberto explains. Intermediate, advanced and beginner – you can do tours by red, black, or blue runs – and the same group can ski different levels at the same time then meet on the gondola or for lunch.”

Connected by ski, Madonna links with the adjacent areas of Pinzolo, Folgarida, and Marileva (making it similar in size to, say, Whistler) – long, beautifully manicured slopes connected by 58 lifts. Ski 360 degrees in the path of the sun, from the limestone glory of the Brenta Dolomites to the high peaks of the Adamello Presanella group. No tour is complete without the challenge of the Canalone Miramonti slope, famous for hosting the 3Tre (pronounced Tre-Tre, as in three-three), the World Cup slalom event held here since 1957. Head towards Pinzola for the best panorama of the Dolomites and stunning glacier view, and to Folgarida for lusciously long runs. For lovers of ski touring, Alberto declares it “paradise of quietness”.

Look in any direction, we’re in the company of chic, yet low-key Italians. “There are some VIPs and well-known football players here,” but, Alberto explains, the clientele is of a more understated variety. “Madonna is for lovers of atmosphere and quality, for those who want to fly low, not show off. They come to enjoy fine quality.” And they won’t be disappointed.

Words Leslie Woit