Aah, the Alps. The powder, the fondue, the cultural frisson – as dependable as a Swiss train.
Why not pause the mad dash to the mountains and take a restorative night in Zürich, one of the world’s most liveable cities. Rich with walkable lake-gazing leisure, it’s a flawless opportunity to stretch ski legs and make the most of a long journey.
Where to Stay
We recommend no finer choice than the casual chic of La Réserve, a Philippe-Starck re-envisioning of the century-old, grand-dame Hotel Eden au Lac. Sophistication on a human scale, with just 40 rooms, it attracts the relaxed beau monde to its Eden Bar, the open-kitchen Michelin-starred Eden Kitchen, and the destination dining of La Muña, a Japanese-Peruvian delight tucked into a penthouse attic of international acclaim.
What to Do
La Réserve’s lakeside perch turns a simple city stroll into something approaching adventure. In season, voila, a romantic Christmas market lined with merry-making raclette booths and gluhwein stalls. All winter long, there’s an embarrassment of riches along the most famous street in all timekeeping lands, the Bahnhofstrasse. Watches are indeed part of what makes the city tick, and hands and bezels are front and centre for the choosing. So too is the opportunity to test the wares of Swiss chocolateries, including small-batch artisans unavailable beyond the country’s borders. Just off the Bahnhofstrasse, spanning a small and charming footprint on either side of the Limmat River, Zürich’s historic Old Town houses a pretty puzzle of picturesque alleyways, narrow lanes, and historic buildings. From its chic clothing boutiques and a treasure trove of food shops, skiers’ needs are well represented indeed. A pair of Hermes skis for 15,000 francs, perhaps? Should anyone feel the need to atone, a dip into the 11th-century Grossmünster Church provides welcome respite, famous for its stained-glass windows by Giacometti. For the definitive aperitif experience, try Kronenhalle where Miró and Chagall hang as casual as family portraits. As you raise a glass, remember, a scant one percent of Switzerland’s superb vintages ever reaches the export market. Why? Locals prefer to drink it themselves. And we don’t blame them.
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