It’s been almost three decades since a young Ken Forrester made his first pilgrimage to Aspen, kicking off a love affair that’s only intensified with each visit. While you may be familiar with the South African winemaker’s wines, a regular feature on lists in the finest ski areas, the unlikely tale of Forrester’s winemaking journey is less known.
“I found the most expensive farm I couldn’t afford and convinced a bank to lend me the money for it,” he recalls of his move to the magical wine town of Stellenbosch, just outside Cape Town. Previously a celebrated restaurateur in Johannesburg, Forrester not only plunged into a new industry, he declared publicly he would make “the best white wine in the world – from Chenin blanc”. It was a declaration met with widespread mirth, not merely due to his inexperience. At the time, Chenin blanc was a blue-collar workhorse of a grape, used principally for producing brandy and white wine responsible for some appalling hangovers. But after an initial misfire – “The first vintage was undrinkable” he readily admits – Forrester created the Chenin revolution.
The revolution was soon to spread.
“We came to the Aspen Food and Wine Festival 27 years ago,” he explains. “We were far away from anywhere and were deer in headlights when we arrived. We partied, we played, we got to bed at three in the morning. It was the crossroads of the wine industry, full of serious players from California, France, Italy, Spain. The Spanish threw a party that was not to be missed. It was wild!”
Standard operating procedure then, for one of South African wine life’s great characters. He quickly found his way to the glamorous side of Aspen. “Over the years we met Kevin Costner, Goldie Hawn, Barbi Benton, and many more wonderful people,” Forrester recounts fondly. “But the one person I’m sorry I never got to meet was Hunter S. Thompson. That would have been a wonderful night!”
Never shy about a good night out is he, particularly when showcasing his wine or where a dance floor is involved. But he’s always up early, whether to walk the home vineyards or spread the South African wine gospel abroad. He clearly has a knack for winning people over: his name check of Aspen establishments stocking Ken Forrester vino reads like a Michelin list.
His catalogue rolls off his tongue: “The Caribou Club – what better place to get Ken Forrester Reserve sauvignon blanc by the glass. The Monarch, with the best Caesar salad in town and again, Ken Forrester by the glass. Kenichi, some of the best Japanese food anywhere. Clark’s Oyster Bar – they do fantastic food and look after the wine beautifully. Wild Fig is a special place run by a South African, so a natural home. Steakhouse 316, and Woody Tavern for rosé in the sunshine. Ajax Tavern in the Little Nell, with the best après ski in the world. You get off the gondola, and Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin blanc is waiting by the glass. Matsuhisa is one of Aspen’s greatest restaurants. Wonderful food, and FMC features prominently. Ellina, under the guidance of Jill (Carnevale), also serves FMC. French Alpine Bistro. We’re pretty well covered, and we love Aspen.”
The feeling would appear mutual, with both wine and winemaker finding global favor. In 2022, the Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc was named Best On Show with 97 points at the Decanter World Wine Awards in London. Last year, Forrester was honored by the South African wine industry with the prestigious 1659 Visionary Leadership Award.
For all the acclaim Forrester wines have garnered around the world, it’s clear Aspen strikes a chord. “I can never forget a group of eight skiers sitting at Ajax Tavern in their ski gear, having burgers and onion soup and Parmesan fries for lunch – and four bottles of Domaine Romanée-Conti,” Forrester recounts with a broad smile. “We’ve had so many good times in Aspen. It’s a special place, with special people, and we love going back.”
If you spot a big, smiling South African on an Aspen dance floor with a bottle of Chenin blanc in hand, raise a toast to an unlikely winemaker, lighting up wine lists for nearly 30 years.
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