It’s just after 7 pm on a dark December night as I first make sight of a grand hotel glowing like a golden beacon at the foot of snowy Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak. As I pull into the driveway and exit my vehicle, a member of the hotel’s staff welcomes me with a huge smile.
“Welcome to The Lodge at Spruce Peak, please let me take care of your car, luggage, and skis. I’d say ‘I hope you’ll enjoy your stay with us,’ but I know you will because your timing is impeccable – we haven’t had this much snow in early December in a very long time. You’re going to have an absolute blast on our slopes!” he says very enthusiastically as he unloads my gear.
Looking back now, the early season snow stats for Stowe Mountain Resort last winter were incredible. By December 11, 2025 total seasonal snowfall at the resort had already reached 90 inches. Mount Mansfield, one of Stowe’s two main peaks, had set a new daily snowfall record for 13 straight days across late November and early December. Even more impressive, the resort’s mountain snow stake had reached 63 inches by December 12th, the highest level ever recorded for the month of December.
As a former Montrealer, I have always been in love with Stowe as an iconic American ski resort, and Vermont in general as a mountain playground. So when I noticed the biblical snowfall the resort was getting pounded with last December, the lure of early season powder – compounded with an Epic Pass in my pocket with unlimited ski access at Stowe meant a little road trip into the Green Mountains was a no-brainer.
Here’s what I gleaned from my ski trip to Stowe last December. I hope you’ll find these tips useful on your next visit to this striking, storied, ski town deep in the heart of snowy Vermont…
TIP 1: SKI RESORT STATS
The birthplace of modern alpine skiing in Vermont, Stowe Mountain Resort has been ferrying skiers from around the world up snowy mountainsides on mechanized lifts since 1937. In terms of history, Stowe is home to America’s oldest ski patrol, and was the keystone in the founding of the famed 10th Mountain Division (a light infantry division of the U.S. Army) in the early 20th century.
Skiers and snowboarders who visit can rip on 116 runs spread across 485 acres of skiable terrain on Mount Mansfield (which at 4,395 ft is Vermont’s highest peak) and Spruce Peak. The resort’s base elevation is 1,559 ft, with a vertical drop of 2,360 ft (16% beginner, 55% intermediate, 29% advanced & 3 terrain parks) serviced by 12 lifts, which include 2 gondolas and 4 high-speed quads. And if it’s not dumping like crazy, as it was last December, the resort’s snowmaking infrastructure covers 83% of Stowe’s 40 total miles of trails.
TIP 2: LIFT PASS INFO
If you’re the holder of a full Epic Pass, you’ll have unlimited, unrestricted access to Stowe Mountain Resort – that’s definitely tip number one if you’re looking at visiting this winter. Epic also has Northeast Value Pass, Local Pass, and Day Pass options if you’re not ready to commit to a full Epic Pass. Click here to find out more.
Walk-up daily lift ticket prices for adults range from $176-$245 depending on when you’re planning on visiting, with significant discounts for pre-purchasing online. To find out more about what it will cost you to hit the slopes without a season pass, click here.
TIP 3: BEST RUNS
Stowe’s famous “Front Four” (Goat, Starr, National, Lift Line) are a must if you’re an advanced/expert level skier who loves to rip steeps. Goat is narrow and features a 36-degree pitch that will make you feel like you’re navigating an obstacle course full of boulders, ledges, and streams set up by Mother Nature herself. National is less narrow and slightly less terrifying. Starr will test your mettle and can get bumpy. Lift Line is as amazing as it is infamous, sitting right under one of the resort’s main chairlifts, giving riders a front-row seat to any yard sales you may be involved in.
For cruisers, Perry Merrill is a dreamy run on Mount Mansfield that is easily accessed via the gondola. This fantastic run is a wide-open groomer perfect for hero snow junkies who aren’t partial to steeps. For those of you who love long, scenic blue runs, Sterling, located on the Spruce Peak side (take the Sensation Quad to get there), is a real winner. I absolutely love doing laps on both these fabulous runs.
If moguls & bumps are your cup of tea, make sure to hit Chin Clip and Spruce Line when you’re at Stowe; both will challenge your knee strength, guts, and stamina!
TIP 4: GEAR RENTALS
There are a zillion ski and snowboard rental options in the Stowe area if you’re not bringing your own gear with you. In the past, I’ve had great service at AJ’s Ski & Sports and MountainOps, but I chose to rent gear for a friend who was with me without his own gear right at Stowe Mountain Resort (on-premises) via Epic Mountain Rentals and received a 20% discount as an Epic Pass holder for pre-ordering online. We chose to pick the gear up ourselves, but could have opted for complimentary delivery also.
TIP 5: ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
As a frequent Stowe visitor over the years, I’ve stayed at all manner of accommodations in the area. From quaint B&Bs to “motor-inn” type motels, and even the beautiful Trapp Family Lodge – once the home of Maria von Trapp (remember The Sound of Music?).
For this visit, I decided to book into the palatial Lodge at Spruce Peak, Stowe’s only luxury ski-in/ski-out hotel, situated right in the heart of the resort’s bustling Spruce Peak village, full of shops and restaurants. In terms of accommodation at this hotel, you can choose from an assortment of options (more than 250), including spacious guest rooms, suites, penthouses, residences, and even sprawling townhomes or cabins.
The Lodge at Spruce Peak (it’s part of the Hyatt hotel family) is only a 40-minute drive from Burlington Airport if you’re flying. This magnificent ski-in/ski-out hotel also has an all-season heated outdoor pool with a swim tunnel, hot tubs, and a world-class wellness spa, which is the perfect place to park your weary carcass after a day of shredding on the slopes. For more information on this wonderful hotel, click here.
Before booking, it is also worth comparing location, reviews, fees, and cancellation terms with these hotel booking tips.
TIP 6: SKI-IN/SKI-OUT DINING OPTIONS
Wandering for food after a long day of skiing is not for everyone. Thankfully, if you’re staying at The Lodge at Spruce Peak, there are two excellent in-house dining options: Alpine Hall and The Tipsy Trout.
Helmed by Chef Sean Blomgren, Alpine Hall is a chic, airy, luxury dining “hall” with high ceilings, modern alpine decor, and postcard windows with an eclectic menu highlighting locally grown ingredients. You can dine at a table or at Alpine Hall’s fabulous bar, which is a great option if you’re dining alone.
As a proud Québécois and lover of French fries topped with squeaky cheese curds and brown gravy, I couldn’t resist ordering Duck Poutine when I saw it on the menu. This mouthwatering starter (duck confit, Maplebrook cheese curds, fried herbs, tallow fries, duck gravy) was off the chain fabulous! For my main course, I went full-on Italiano, with a spectacular Bucatini Bolognese (beef & pork ragu, pecorino, basil, extra virgin olive oil) that was incredible.
Unable to resist my temptation for dessert, I chose a heavenly Eggnog Bread Pudding (baked eggnog bread pudding with dark spiced rum caramel, and vanilla ice cream) and even taste-tested my friend’s mountainous Alpine Chocolate Gateau (buttermilk chocolate cake with Valrhona chocolate mousse, ganache, and Vermont buttercream) – both were ridiculously amazing!
I didn’t try the Tipsy Trout on this trip, but will surely dip my toes in the water there next time as they’ve got an assortment of fresh, premium oysters and other fresh seafood on their daily menu. When I was visiting, they had oysters from Maine (Mere Point), Massachusetts (Wellfleet), and even all the way from Chebooktook, New Brunswick (Canada) on offer.
Other great options just outside the hotel in Spruce Peak village include Pico Taco, and The Whistlepig Pavillion & Tasting Shack which I know I will definitely try out down the road sometime!
While I was skiing, I also dropped into the Octagon Cafe (at the top of the FourRunner Quad lift) to scarf down one of their famed breakfast sandwiches (fried egg, caramelized onions, arugula, Cabot white cheddar cheese & bacon or sausage) and even had a chili for lunch. Both were beyond scrumptious!
Finally, on my last day, I had a rather “elevated” luncheon experience at Stowe’s famed Cliff House restaurant (elevation 3625 ft above sea level, located at the top of the gondola on Mount Mansfield) while in my ski boots. The Caesar salad and Cliff House burger (grilled beef patty, Bourbon caramelized onions, mushrooms, Swiss cheese, Dijonaise, winter greens on a brioche bun) were exquisite, and I can’t wait to go back.
TIP 7: OFF-MOUNTAIN DINING OPTIONS
Again, like the vast amount of accommodation options in the area, Stowe is full of excellent dining establishments of all culinary levels and price points. Some of my favorites are great eateries like Harrison’s Restaurant & Bar, Idyltyme and The Bench. But, as I had one night on my itinerary to dine away from the mountain, I chose the new von Trapp Brewing Bierhall located near the Trapp Family Lodge a very short drive from Stowe Mountain Resort.
Located in a massive wooden ski chalet-style building with soaring cathedral ceilings and a very inviting U-shaped bar in the middle of the restaurant, the von Trapp Brewing Bierhall is an excellent choice if you’re into delicious craft-brewed lagers and ales made to taste like premium European brews. The award-winning von Trapp Brewing creations you’ll drink here are made close by in a new state-of-the-art Rolec brewhouse imported from Munich, Germany, and pair very nicely with the multitude of traditional Austro-German culinary specialities available on the dining menu (schnitzel, spätzle, and sauerkraut to name a few).
I had a craving for a nice juicy Ribeye steak, and couldn’t resist ordering the restaurant’s “Grilled Drunken 14 oz Ribeye” when I noticed it was marinated in dark von Trapp “Dunkel” lager and served with sauerkraut mashed potatoes. I have never had a lager-marinated steak before in my life, or mashed potatoes infused with sauerkraut, or a cheddar lager soup (which was my starter), but I now know I’m a huge fan. The steak itself (no exaggeration) was the best steak I’ve ever had in my life (not kidding) and dethroned an otherworldly ribeye I had in Santiago, Chile, at a restaurant called Eladio in 2009 as my numero uno steak of all time.
TIP 8: APRÈS SKI OPTIONS
Before unveiling my favorite on-mountain Stowe Mountain Resort après-ski location, let me tell you about a very elegant and non-traditional version of post-schussing beverage worship you too can experience if you’re visiting Stowe at the right time.
Before hitting the von Trapp Brewing Bierhall for dinner, I decided to head over to the von Trapp Family Lodge & Resort for a little souvenir shopping for the Sound of Music nerds/junkies in my family (and there are quite a few) at the hotel’s fabulous gift shop. While I was there, I stumbled across a wine tasting event hosted by Kristina von Trapp Frame, the late Maria von Trapp’s granddaughter.
Turns out wine tasting at this wonderful hotel happens twice a week all year long (Wednesdays & Saturdays, 4- 6 p.m.), is available to guests and non-guests alike for a fee ($40), and if you’re lucky, you may even meet and taste wine with a real von Trapp! And I can say this without reserve: Kristina von Trapp Frame is one of the most down-to-earth famous hoteliers you’ll ever have the good fortune of meeting in person – who makes time to genuinely interact with all her guests – even stragglers who wander in unexpected and uninvited (like yours truly).
Set up in the hotel’s spacious wine cellar, the wine tasting (lots of amazing French whites and reds during my visit) is led by one of the hotel’s very knowledgeable sommeliers and is paired with a generous amount of delicious hor d’oeuvres. I highly recommend checking this out if the timing works during your visit to Stowe. For more information on wine tasting at the von Trapp Family Lodge & Resort, click here.
OK, now onto my favorite on-mountain spot for après-ski, which has to be – hands down – The Den, one of the oldest and most legendary bars in Stowe. Located inside the Mansfield Base Lodge (it’s the oldest base lodge in the Northeast), The Den is a classic American ski bar from a bygone era, complete with friendly/colorful ski locals, travelers from exotic lands (Brazil, Mexico), and a very cool, old-school bartender named Ray whipping up drinks in a vintage Hawaiian shirt. Do not miss cozying up to this bar, or sitting by a roaring fire in The Den’s charming lounge with a nice frosty beer, or a toasty warm Irish Hot Chocolate (which is my drink of choice on chilly ski days) when you’re in Stowe.
TIP 9: OTHER WINTER ACTIVITIES
There are a myriad of non-skiing or snowboarding outdoor winter activities you can partake in while visiting Stowe. If you’re into cross-country skiing, you can explore miles and miles of very scenic trails at the Stowe Cross Country Center or at the von Trapp Family Lodge & Resort. You can also try ice fishing, ice climbing, dog sledding, ice skating (slopeside, right in the heart of Spruce Village), or guided snowmobiling tours through snowy Mount Mansfield State Forest.
For more information, click here.
TIP 10: FUN OFF THE SLOPES
A visit to the nearby town of Stowe (a 10-minute car ride) is a great way to spend an entire day if you want to take a day off the slopes and wander around a classic Vermont ski town. With more than 60 shops to choose from, you can definitely indulge in some serious retail therapy at some of Stowe’s charming general stores and chic boutiques. Three shops I never miss visiting when I’m in town are The Country Store on Main, Bear Pond Books, and Stowe Mercantile!
If you’re a history buff and are curious about the deep roots of alpine sports in the Green Mountain State, make sure to check out the Vermont Ski & Snowboard Museum right on South Main Street in downtown Stowe. If you’re into historic architecture, a short walk from the museum, you’ll find one of Vermont’s most iconic buildings, the Stowe Community Church built in 1863. This stunning white church, with its towering ivory spire, is absolutely worth a visit when you’re in town.
Another great local attraction not to be missed, especially if you love ice cream, is a tour of the Ben & Jerry’s factory in nearby Waterbury, Vermont (about a 15-minute drive from Stowe), which is open to the public year-round. Built in 1985, this wonderful factory manufactures upwards of 350,000 pints of ice cream every day and is the only Ben & Jerry’s manufacturing facility that offers tours. There is a great little on-site souvenir shop too if you’re partial to Ben & Jerry’s memorabilia and clothing! Click here to find out more.
If shopping, wandering, or ice cream tours are not your thing, but chilling out in a spa or wellness center is, Stowe has a great selection of happy places to blissfully while away the hours. The Spa at Stoweflake Resort and the Topnotch Spa at Topnotch Resort are two outstanding options, but I was lucky enough to have easy access to The Spa at Spruce Peak. Located slopeside right inside the Lodge at Spruce Peak where I was staying, The Spa at Spruce Peak is a 21,000-square-foot luxury wellness space that includes a Healing Lodge, a sanctuary lounge, a full-service fitness center, and a gigantic heated outdoor pool, with several adjacent outdoor hot tubs to choose from – and yes, I know I’m a very lucky fellow!
GETTING TO STOWE, VT:
If you’re flying, the nearest major airport is Burlington International Airport (BTV), which is about a forty-minute drive away via shuttle, taxi, or rental car. If you’re driving yourself, Stowe is only 3.5 hours from Boston, 6.5 hours from NYC, 3 hours from Montreal, and 8 hours from Philadelphia.
For more information on how to get to Stowe, click here.
MORE GENERAL INFORMATION ON STOWE: CLICK HERE.
Related Posts
Nothing found.