Le Mur Suisse, the mere mention of this colossus of a ski run, one of the steepest and gnarliest pistes in the world, still gives me the shivers. My first meeting with this monstrous mogul run was with a local guide last February on a trip to stunning Region Dents du Midi, the Swiss section of the much larger Portes du Soleil ski area that straddles Switzerland and France.
“Michael, would you like to try Le Mur Suisse, which means ‘The Swiss Wall’ in English,” my guide du jour Laura Cruz asked me with a mischievous grin pointing to it across a snowy valley. “It’s one of the top ten most difficult ski runs in the world and it’s looking really beautiful today.”
“Uhhh, I think I’ll take a pass, but thanks,” I replied with a little sheepish gulp before changing the subject and zipping down a meticulously groomed cruiser.
The following day, after seeing some cool “I skied Le Mur Suisse” type merch in a shop I was dying to buy, I decided to give it a shot. It was tough, and really, really, really steep, and despite taking almost thirty minutes to crisscross my way to the bottom (with more than a few stops to catch my breath and scope out lines) I did it!
Le Mur Suisse is definitely a bucket list ski run, but there is much more to Region Dents du Midi than this spine-tingling piste. Here’s some info on this fabulous resort that may come in handy if you’re interested in checking it out yourself!
TIP 1: SKI RESORT STATS
Nestled on the heights above the enchanting Val-d’Illiez valley in Switzerland’s breathtaking Valais canton, the Region Dents du Midi comprises six of the most charming little Swiss alpine hamlets you will ever come across. Not very far from the southeastern tip of Lake Geneva, all of the Region Dents du Midi’s villages (Champéry, Champoussin, Les Crosets, Morgins, Troistorrents, Val d’Illiez) are on the Swiss side of the much larger Portes du Soleil ski resort, which encompasses eight neighboring ski resorts on the French side of the border.
All of Region Dent du Midi’s six villages have access to over 600 km of interconnected sunny slopes (it’s called Portes du Soleil for good reason) that also include the French resorts of Morzine, Avoriaz, Les Gets, Châtel, Abondance, La Chapelle d’Abondance, Montriand, and St-Jean d’Aulps.
Incidentally, Portes du Soleil is the biggest international ski resort in the world, with 307 groomed trails serviced by a whopping 202 lifts spread out over the border of Switzerland and France. In terms of altitude, the resort sits at 950 meters above sea level (roughly 3100 feet) and goes up to 2,227 meters (roughly 7,300 feet) with about 4350 feet of skiable vertical in between, and is usually open between December and April.
TIP 2: LIFT PASS INFO
There are so many lift pass options when you’re staying and skiing in the Region Dents du Midi. Day passes, multi-day passes, 5-hour passes, passes that begin at 11 am or 1:30 pm, and even season passes if you’re planning on sticking around for a big chunk of time.
If you’re only going to ski on the Swiss side of the Portes du Soleil resort area, and not cross over into France, you can purchase a regional Swiss Area 3 CM pass. This pass allows you to ski at Champery, Les Crosets, Champoussin, Morgins, Troistorrents, and Val d’Illiez for CHF 67 (online price for one day of skiing). For those of you who want to zig and zag in and out of Switzerland and France at your leisure, do the smart thing and purchase a Portes du Soleil lift pass, which will only cost you CHF 74 (online price) for one day.
Lastly, if you’re into saving a little cash, definitely purchase your passes online, as there is a nice little discount for doing that. For more info on lift passes at Region Dents du Midi and Portes du Soleil, click here.
TIP 3: BEST SLOPES
Both Region Dents du Midi, and Portes du Soleil as a whole, have a wide selection of runs of varying difficulty. Almost half the resort is made up of friendly cruisers that are groomed to perfection. The other half has a delicious selection of challenging terrain that ranges from intermediate to expert, with very little hiking if you’re looking for some off-piste thrills, as the lift system here is very extensive.
In terms of “best slopes” the gargantuan size of this resort guarantees something for everyone. One of my faves was the “Stade” run in Les Crosets which had a nice challenging pitch (it’s often used for race training) and was a hard-pack carver’s dream.
Not to be missed, but FOR EXPERTS ONLY who don’t mind navigating Volkswagen Beetle sized moguls – Chavanette (aka Le Mur Suisse) which sits on the border of Switzerland and France at the start and takes bravehearted skiers and boarders down into beautiful Les Crosets.
The Godzilla of mogul runs (it’s never groomed), Le Mur Suisse is not unlike a 331 meter drop into a kilometer long elevator shaft, with a headspinning 40-degree angle so steep snowcats aren’t able to reach it at the top. Please, please, please, do not attempt this very steep run if skiing around, or over giant moguls (some as high as 5 feet) is not in your ski ability comfort zone.
My favorite run at Region Dents du Midi, hands down, was the Piste Didier Défago, named after the Olympic gold medalist and World Champion who grew up in Morgins. I absolutely adored this run, not just because Didier has been a colleague and friend for 20 years, but because it’s a long and winding piste that includes a very scenic portion through some wooded glades (once only accessible to off-piste skiers), and it was always my last run of the day right back into Morgins where I was staying!
TIP 4: GEAR RENTALS
There are 13 great shops to rent or purchase all kinds of ski and snowboard equipment in Region Dents du Midi. As I was staying in Morgins, I picked up my ski rentals at Snowline Ski and Snowboard Shop, which is very conveniently located right at the bottom of the Télécabine Morgins cable car.
Staff, service, and gear selection at this wonderful shop are excellent, and everyone speaks English in case your French or German is a bit rusty. For more info, click here.
TIP 5: ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Accommodation options in Region Dents du Midi, and across the Portes du Soleil resort area are endless. As this was my first time there, I will only touch on Chez Jan, the gorgeous boutique hotel I stayed at in the postcard ski village of Morgins.
Founded in 1880, Chez Jan La Pension de Morgins is a luxurious, family-run hotel a mere 50 meters from the Télécabine de Morgins cable car, right in the center of this charming village of 500 souls. The hotel’s 11 rooms, 2 suites, and single “XXL Suite” (2 bedrooms and bathrooms) are housed in a marvelously traditional wooden Swiss chalet with massive balconies offering incredible views of the soaring peaks surrounding Morgins. Rooms are very large, and individually decorated with tasteful alpine chic furnishings.
My room had a large photograph of Heidi taken from the 1952 version of the iconic Swiss motion picture hanging over the bed, which my wife now wants to see for herself during a future visit, as she is a big fan of the film.
Owned and operated by uber-friendly Heleen and Jan de Graaf since 2012, Chez Jan (formerly called “La Reine des Alpes”) also has a fantastic bar and restaurant (OMG the breakfasts were to die for!) on the ground floor with a majestic fireplace and lots of cozy seating for drinks, snacks, meals, and mouthwatering café and croissants during breakfast.
TIP 6: SKI-IN/SKI-OUT DINING OPTIONS
Chez Coquoz
Chez Coquoz, run by the Coquoz family since 1952, is Portes du Soleil’s first ski-in/ski-out restaurant, and it’s not to be missed if you’re skiing here. Located on the sunny slopes of Champéry, Chez Coquoz is a restaurant and brasserie with an outstanding menu full of Valaisan specialities, a great selection of beer, and an even more impressive wine cellar.
On bluebird days, you can dine on Chez Coquoz’s sunny terrace and take in jaw-dropping views of the Ruan Glacier, as well as the iconic Dents du Midi and Dents Blanches ranges. For my lunch, after hours and hours skiing in the sun, I opted for a little shade inside, and got a table next to the restaurant’s beautiful wood-carved open fireplace, where I devoured a deliciously fresh Poke bowl with Norwegian-style “Gravlax” salmon, hard-boiled eggs, served with rice and avocado. For dessert, the “tarte du jour” was a homemade lemon meringue, which was pure heaven! For more info about Chez Coquoz, click here.
Restaurant Plein Ciel
Perched on one of the most scenic parcels of mountain real estate in Champéry, the ski-in/ski-out Restaurant Plein Ciel (part of Hotel Plein Ciel) and its ginormous outdoor sun terrace are THE place to go if you’re in the mood for homemade desserts…especially if you’re a “tarte aux myrtilles” (blueberry pie) junkie! I can honestly say the tarte aux myrtilles at Plein Ciel is one of the best I’ve ever had. I hope they have it available next time I visit! For more info about Restaurant Plein Ciel, click here.
DIY Picnic With A View
Another great on-mountain dining option is a do-it-yourself picnic with a view. I saw a whole lot of people parked in front of unbelievable panoramas, having their own wine, cheese, and chocolate feasts on both the Swiss and French sides of the border. The grocery stores in this part of the world are well stocked with exceptional wines, cheeses, freshly baked baguettes, and phenomenal chocolates. Throwing your lunch provisions into a backpack here has the makings of a very unforgettable picnic on skis!
TIP 7: OFF-MOUNTAIN DINING OPTIONS
Le Di.Vins
One part restaurant, one part wine bar, Le Di.Vins in Morgins has something for everyone. Meat, fish, poultry, and vegetarian options are plentiful on this restaurant’s dining carte, and a huge selection of wine (but more on that later when we’re talking après).
I was craving steak, and that’s exactly what I ordered up, with a side of creamy mashed potatoes and delicious vegetables. It was done to perfection (medium rare), and I still had room for a scrumptious “Café Gourmand” dessert plate (coffee and selection of small desserts). For more information about Le Di.Vins, click here.
Les Fontaines Blanches
If you love hearty, traditional Swiss mountain cuisine, and Rösti (oven-baked fried grated potatoes covered with gooey Raclette cheese) is one of your favorites when you’re in the Swiss Alps, you won’t go wrong if you drop into Les Fontaines Blanches in Morgins.
This very chill, family-friendly restaurant is where locals (and smart tourists) flock to when they’re in the mood for Valaisan specialties like “Roesti” (as it’s spelled in the French-speaking part of Switzerland), but they’re not in the mood to make it themselves. I love this traditional dish and hit the jackpot when I ordered “Roesti des Fontaines” made with “lardons” (bacon) and eggs; it was exquisite!
Meat’hic Grill
Meat eaters will go bonkers at the mythic menu (the name of the restaurant is a play on the words “mythic” and “meat”) at this high alpine grill house.
You won’t go wrong if you order a steak (their “Filet de boeuf Wagyu Kagoshims is epic!) and a nice glass of red wine here, but I’d heard tales of its ridiculously succulent pork ribs with a homemade BBQ sauce, so that’s what I ordered.
All I can say is… fall-off-the-bone perfection, winner, winner, pork rib dinner! A close second, however, and it would be criminal not to mention it, Meat’hic Grill’s “Velouté de Potimarron” (Hokkaido pumpkin cream soup with nutmeg and crushed pumpkin seeds), sooooo delish!
TIP 8: APRÈS SKI OPTIONS
La Folie Douce – Avoriaz 1800
I’ve been to a few La Folie Douce establishments over the years during my alpine ski escapades in the Alps, but one of my all-time favorites is found in gloriously sunny Avoriaz 1800 on the French side of Portes du Soleil. Like every other La Folie Douce locale on the world’s ski map, this place is bumpin’!!!! I wasn’t in the mood for a drink and some ski boot boogeying when I initially skied into Avoriaz, but hey, it happened, and I’m the better for it thanks to La Folie Douce!
Restaurant Plein Ciel’s Sun Terrace
Oooh I love Scottish single malt whisky, especially from the Lagavulin distillery on the island of Islay when it’s aged for 16 years. If you love whisky, or just about any other type of alcoholic beverage at the end of a long ski day while sitting in the sun taking in epic mountain panorama views, I would strongly suggest a visit to Restaurant/Hotel Plein Ciel’s heavenly outdoor terrace in Champéry!
Chez Coquoz Sun Terrace
Fresh oysters, in the fresh air of the Swiss Alps, OMG Chez Coquoz is off the chain amazing! If swigging back divine, saltwater, bi-valve molluscs while staring at some of the most beautiful snow-covered mountains in the world with champagne or a nice chilled Aperol Spritz is something you’d find acceptable after you’re done skiing for the day, this is the place to be.
Le Di.Vins
If you’re staying in Morgins, and are a bit peckish after a long day of shredding, I would head straight over to Le Di.Vins (very close to the town center) and order a nice glass of chilled Swiss Fendant (white wine from Chasselas grapes) and pair it with “Terrine de Foie Gras Mi-cuit avec Toasts Rustiques et Compote d’Oignons” (half-cooked foie gras terrine with rustic toast and onion compote). I did, it was amazing!
TIP 9: OTHER WINTER ACTIVITIES
If you’re not a skier or snowboarder but still love to get out and enjoy winter, there is a boundless assortment of other activities you can enjoy while in Region Dents du Midi. Snowshoeing (there are over 150 km of marked trails for all levels), cross-country skiing (280 km of trails in the region), ski touring, tobogganing, ice climbing, ice skating, sledding, fatbiking, sleigh rides, and winter hiking are all easily accessible activities while you’re in the area. For more information, click here.
TIP 10: FUN OFF THE SLOPES
Cheese and chocolate, if you’re into either of these two delicacies, the Portes du Soleil region of the Alps is a great place to be.
I’m particularly fond of cheeses from the Valais region of Switzerland and the nearby Haute Savoie region of France. Fortunately for me, the breakfast spread at Chez Jan, the hotel I stayed at in Morgins, Switzerland, was well stocked with delectable soft and hard Swiss cheeses from local Valaisan dairy farms.
I was, however, curious about what was available on the other side of the border in France, so I snuck over to Abondance, on the French side of the resort, and took a very informative (and tasty!) cheese tasting tour at the Maison du Fromage Abondance, which I would highly recommend!
For more information on tours at Maison du Fromage Abondance, go to: https://www.regiondentsdumidi.ch/en/178159-abondance-cheese-house-75061/
GETTING TO REGION DENTS DU MIDI:
Region Dents du Midi is easily accessible via bus, train, or car, and is only a two-hour drive from Geneva Airport or a three-hour drive from Zurich Airport. I purchased Travel Switzerland’s all-in-one Swiss Travel Pass and traveled to the village of Morgins, where I was staying via train and bus, which was super easy. The Swiss Travel Pass lets you use trains, buses, and boats with one ticket for 3, 4, 6, 8, or 15 days. This pass will also get you into over 500 museums in Switzerland for free, as well as get you discounts on other travel-related excursions in Switzerland. For more information on the Swiss Travel Pass, go to: https://www.swissrailways.com/en/buy-swiss-travel-pass
MORE INFORMATION ON REGION DENTS DU MIDI
For more information on Region Dents du Midi, go to: https://www.regiondentsdumidi.ch/en/region-dents-du-midi/
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