“So what you’re telling me is you came all the way to Andermatt to ski a run named after your favourite Swiss downhill racer and to try out a Japanese restaurant?” my friend and ski guide du jour Marcel Baumann asks me with a huge grin, as we make our way up Andermatt’s famed Gurschengrat chairlift on a glorious mid-February bluebird day in the Swiss Alps.

“Ummmm, not exactly. I’m also here because Andermatt is on my Epic Pass and I didn’t have to pay anything extra for lift tickets,” I reply with a sheepish giggle.

Minutes later we disembark at 3000 meters (almost 10,000 feet) and pit stop for a few photos from the top of the Gemsstock lookout peering over the snow white Gurschen glacier. After a few laps on the top half of Bernhard Russi Run (more on that later) on Gemsstock, one of the most challenging and exhilarating mountain sections in the Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis ski area, we ski all the way back down into town via this very impressive 6 km long run.

Andermatt, and neighboring Sedrun and Disentis in Switzerland’s breathtaking Graubünden canton, have been on my skier’s radar for years thanks to advice from a close friend who fell in love with the area as a young exchange student. Then, last winter as I was perusing the European ski resorts included on my Epic Pass, I noticed Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis was available to me on my pass, so I couldn’t resist checking the area out.

Here’s what my two unforgettable days in Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis looked, felt, and tasted like…

Itinerary

Three words come to mind when I think of The Chedi Andermatt – lap of luxury. This absolutely ravishing five-star hotel nestled between the picturesque Gemsstock and Nätschen peaks, right in the heart of one of the most charming  “chocolate box” ski towns in the Swiss Alps, is a bucket list attraction on its own.

Designed by renowned Belgian architect Jean-Michel Gathy, The Chedi Andermatt is the perfect hybrid of East and West both inside and out – one part towering wooden Swiss chalet/one part tranquil wooden Japanese onsen. The Chedi’s exquisite exterior skin resembles classic Japanese Shoji or Fusama paper sliding walls constructed out of dark weathered timbers – pure genius.

Inside The Chedi, a river of zen-like tranquility flows through the hotel thanks to a perfect balance of dark stone floors, stylish glass chandeliers, and light coloured natural wood geometric ceilings and wall panelling. All of this Asian minimalist bling is tied together flawlessly by carbon black beams and columns done in the traditional Japanese Shou Sugi Ban burnt wood style. But ultimately this is a “ski hotel” and that is not forgotten. Public areas are roomy, with plush velvet seating and eyecatching black iron and glass fireplaces – the perfect environment for après ski mingling and lounging with other snow warriors if the mood strikes.

I knew I was in for a very special experience at The Chedi as soon as I exited the elevator on the way to my room. At first glance, the long hallway leading to my homebase for the next 48 hours looked like an art gallery, or at least I claimed it did on an Instagram story I couldn’t resist posting as “The Most Elegant Hotel Hallway in The World”.

My room was more than just a room – it was a massive suite with a very inviting deep, cloth and leather sofa in front of a gigantic black and white mural version of a Baroque painting. Next to the living area, a door led to a private balcony with panoramic alpine views of the snowy peaks towering above Andermatt. On the other side of the suite, a lush king bed I knew I would have a hard time pulling myself away from in the morning, and a huge wood and stone bathroom area with a dreamy soaker tub behind a wooden Japanese-style sliding door.

I’ve spent time at some luxurious hotels during my travels across the Alps, but The Chedi Andermatt is in a class of its own, definitely one of the most special places I’ve ever been fortunate enough to call home during a ski holiday.

After a few late afternoon sauna/cold plunge/rest circuits at The Chedi’s stunning 2400 square meter wellness facility, and experiencing a full-on state of spa nirvana at its “Tibetan Relaxation Lounge” I changed for dinner and made my way to the hotel’s famed “The Japanese” restaurant – my maiden voyage into 2 Michelin star dining.

I’d heard about The Japanese from Swiss friends who had dined there, and raved to me about the food and ethereal atmosphere. When they told me it was like being in another world, and that you had to walk through a veiled pathway lit by Japanese floor lanterns to enter, I was beyond intrigued and knew I had to make the pilgrimage to this very unique dining establishment.   

Helmed by Swiss twin brother Chef de Cuisines, Fabio Toffolon and Dominik Sato (aka “The Twins”), this incredible restaurant is something you have to experience at least once in your life if you’re a lover of fine Japanese cuisine. But full disclosure, The Japanese actually describes itself as  “Japanese-inspired” fine dining, using everything from Norwegian lobster, to Parmesan cheese, and even Peruvian chili, to create its innovative and groundbreaking dishes.

We will be publishing a more elaborate and detailed account of the fabulous three hour dining experience I had at The Japanese later this ski season, but for now trust me when I say everything from the Sakizuke starters to the main Omakase menu (which included courses of mackerel, scallops, stone-bass, sweetbreads, Vendée pigeon,, chestnuts, and lobster) were heavenly!

Breakfast at The Chedi is wonderful unless you’re an obsessive lover of gourmet cheeses. If this is the case you’re in trouble as there is a huge, transparent glass-encased, twenty-foot tall “fromagerie” right next to the main restaurant.

Fortunately the interior designers at “The Restaurant” have decorated this vast, and very roomy dining establishment with high ceilings and elegant chandeliers which helps keep your mind off the delicious cheeses just feet away.

Once your breakfast focus is switched off cheese and onto other morning classics, you can order just about anything imaginable à la carte, or meander around an assortment of food bars. There are self-service counters for fresh baked goods, fruits, cereals, cured meats, cheeses, and open kitchen stations for hot dishes (almost any kind of egg dish), vegetarian/vegan options. There is even a place for kids to load up donut-type treats.

I ordered an amazing Eggs Benedict dish with bacon, sourdough bread, and homefried potatoes off the menu, and it was cooked to absolute perfection. Oh and yes, I also hit the “fromagerie” for some of the best cheeses I’ve ever had in my life!

Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis is the largest interconnected ski area in the central part of Switzerland with over 180 km of trails of all levels to discover. As a high alpine resort, snow conditions here are usually as impeccable as the mind-blowing 360 degree panoramic views of the snowcapped peaks surrounding the resort. The people moving infrastructure at Andermatt, as well as Sedrun and Disentis, is very modern, with a train station right in the heart of town that makes getting here a breeze. And once you’re in the resort and geared up to play on-mountain, there are 33 lifts that will take you up to 3000 meters with a smorgasbord of above-treeline runs to rip on.

Speaking of ripping, if you’re a lover of top quality off-piste skiing that is easily accessible via lifts, then Gemsstock peak in the Andermatt-Sedrun ski area will be a gold mine for you. Lovingly referred to as the “Eldorado” of freeskiing in Switzerland for its incredible steeps and powder that are easily accessible via lifts, this is the place to go for big mountain shredding if you like to do it without a ton of hoofing and climbing.

My attraction to the area however, is directly related to my fanboy-like fascination with Swiss downhill racing legend Bernhard Russi, who grew up in Andermatt. As I mentioned earlier, the run named after Herr Russi – a two time World downhill champion (1970 & 1972), and a downhill gold medal at the 1972 Olympic Winter Games in Sapporo, Japan – begins at the top of Gemsstock and shoots down the mountain for 6 kms (one of the longest in Switzerland) into Andermatt. If you love to blast down steep, well prepared groomed slopes, the Bernhard Russi Run is a black piste you will thoroughly enjoy, I know I did!

After a long morning of hard charging on Gemmstock, my friend Marcel asked me if I’d be interested in taking a break for a hot chocolate and some lunchtime snacks next to a lighthouse not far from the source of the Rhine River.

My curiosity peaked, I agreed, and we skied down to the flats of the Oberalp Pass, and ordered up a few divine hot chocolates at a charming mountain hut called the Alpine Guesthouse Piz Calmot. Once we parked our tired carcasses on some comfy red beach chairs and started sipping on our hot chockies, Marcel explained why our eyes were fixated on a huge, white, high-altitude lighthouse smack dab in the middle of the Swiss Alps.

“The lighthouse in front of us is a replica of the former front light from the ‘Hook of Holland’ which helped illuminate the mouth of the Rhine River near Rotterdam for 70 years,” Marcel told me.

“It stands here now at the Oberalp Pass symbolically as a kind of bridge between the source of the Rhine at Lake Toma near Pazolastock, which is not far from where we are now, and Rotterdam where the river ends. You can go on a ski tour to Lake Toma in the winter, and hike to it in the summer from right here,” he added.

Definitely one of the most original hot chocolate drinking locations I’ve ever experienced – and worth a visit when you’re skiing here!

On the suggestion of some local friends, I decided to hit Andermatt’s Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen for some après cocktails at its spacious-yet-cozy Bärbar Drinks Lounge, and an early dinner afterwards.

With no driving in my future I decided to imbibe in a delicious local beer called Stiär Biär, followed up by a few exotic drinks that I couldn’t resist ordering – a “Sexy Mountain Spritz” (Tanqueray Rangpur, Limoncello, Chamomile, Lemon, Soda) and a Purple Haze (Butterfly Pea Tea infused gin, Rosemary, Lemon, Gingerbeer) – both were delightful.

After an hour of lounging on a cushy circular couch next to a gorgeous 1970s-inspired black hanging fireplace in-the-round, I moved into the Radisson Blu’s Spun Restaurant in the adjoining room for dinner with another local friend.

Hungry to the max after a big day on the slopes I ordered a heaping helping of  “Kalbsschmorgeschnetzltes” – braised veal strips in a rich mushroom cream sauce with a mouthwatering side dish of homemade butter rösti potatoes. When I think of alpine comfort food, this is the dish that will come to mind for the rest of my life. Sooooooo delicious, and so filling – which unfortunately meant no room for dessert – very unusual for me!

After a day of rocketing down steeps on Gemsstock, my friend and trusty ski guide Marcel suggested a day focused on crushing corduroy cruisers on the sunny south facing slopes of the Andermatt-Gütsch section of the resort.

I am a lover of big, wide, meticulously groomed slopes, and after a quick ride up the Gütsch-Express gondola my eyes lit when I saw what lay ahead.

Absolutely perfect A+++ conditions on vast, uncrowded, sun-lit slopes with buttery corduroy as far as they eye could see. So we spent the entire morning ripping down groomed runs and dipping into giant snow bowls full of soft powder, under bluebird skies and a blazing winter sun. OMG what a morning!

With a solid three hours of morning shredding in the books and a late afternoon train to catch, Marcel suggested having an early lunch at Andermatt’s fabulous GÜTSCH by Markus Neff restaurant, a one Michelin star rated fine dining establishment with a stunning outdoor terrace facing the central Swiss Alps.

Located at 2344 meters (almost 7,700 feet) above sea level on a small plateau on its namesake Gütsch Mountain, this delightfully elegant and unpretentious restaurant run by Chef Markus Neff and his team is not to be missed, especially when the sun is shining and the Champagne is flowing!

We started our meal with a couple of glasses of ultra refreshing, premier cru Fresnet-Juillet brut Champagne. The meal began with an amuse bouche consisting of fresh shrimp, salad, and a divine celery soup with a teeny-weeny hint of heat.

A surf & turf devotee, I couldn’t resist ordering Chef Neff’s steamed rock lobster, served on a bed of wintergreens in a pomegranate vinaigrette for my entrée – undersea ecstasy at almost 8,000 feet is something you’ll never forget! Fortunately I snapped out of my ecstatic food trance, and resurfaced up to terra firma just in time for a melt-in-your-mouth prime cut of grilled tenderloin of bison. This incredibly tender cut of meat was served on a fluffy potato mousseline pillow, bathed in an otherworldly green pepper jus.

And finally for dessert, a delicate, delectable, crispy baked mango roll served with coconut-lime ice cream, followed up with espressos and a tray of sweet nibblies. If you are skiing in Andermatt make sure you book a table at this fabulous restaurant – everything from the views, to the food, and the super-friendly staff are top tier!

HOW TO GET YOUR ANDERMATT+SEDRUN+DISENTIS SKI PASS IF YOU’RE AN EPIC PASS HOLDER WITH ACCESS TO THIS RESORT

Lift passes are very simple to obtain if you have an Epic Pass with access to Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis. All I had to do was go to a lift ticket office (I went to the one near the main train/gondola station with valid photo ID)  and in less than five minutes, I walked out with a season pass.

Epic Pass offers access to 34 resorts across ten ski areas in Europe, as well as access to 37 iconic North American mountain resorts like Vail and Whistler Blackcomb just to name a few.

For more info about Epic Pass go to: https://www.epicpass.com/

MORE INFO ON ANDERMATT+SEDRUN+DISENTIS: 

To find out more about Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis go to: https://www.andermatt-sedrun-disentis.ch/andermatt/en/pages/winter

Andermatt has a wide assortment of hotels for every budget. For my visit I stayed at the luxurious, 5-star The Chedi, Andermatt.  For more info about this beautiful hotel go to:https://www.thechediandermatt.com/

Equipment rental in Andermatt is super easy. I rented skis, boots, and poles from Gleis 0 Sports & Rental located directly in Andermatt’s central train station, steps away from lift access. For more info on Gleis 0 go to: https://www.andermatt-sedrun-disentis.ch/en/stories/gleis-0-sports-and-rental

GETTING TO ANDERMATT+SEDRUN+DISENTIS:

The closest airports to Andermatt+Sedrun+Disentis are Zurich and Milan. However this resort is easily accessible via bus, train, and car. I purchased Travel Switzerland’s all-in-one Swiss Travel Pass and traveled to Andermatt via train which was super easy. The Swiss Travel Pass lets you use trains, buses, boats with one ticket for 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 days. This pass will also get you into over 500 museums in Switzerland for free, as well as get you discounts on other travel-related excursions in Switzerland. For more information on the Swiss Travel Pass, go to:

https://www.swissrailways.com/en/buy-swiss-travel-pass