Deep in the heart of Austria’s famed Arlberg region, a soft, golden veil of late day winter sun cloaks the snowcapped peaks towering high above the sleepy village of Lech in a rich, amber-colored alpenglow. On the distant horizon, a wall of dark grey clouds slowly approaches, bringing with it what will hopefully be a bounty of fresh powder, as the forecast is calling for a significant snowfall over the next twelve hours.

My timing couldn’t be more perfect as I enter the Bergbahn Oberlech gondola station and find a resort concierge waiting for me. “We’ll take care of your bags, Mr. Mastarciyan,” he assures me, and tells me my luggage will be tunneled up the mountain to my hotel perched 5400 feet above sea level overlooking Lech.

Footloose, with no bags to lug, I swagger into a large, sleek cable car resembling a giant black onyx ice cube, and after a very short and scenic ride, I disembark and spend a few minutes watching the sun slowly sink behind the nearby Omeshorn, one of the most impressive and well-known peaks in this part of the Austrian Alps.

As the light begins to fade and the temperature starts to plummet, I ramble down a snowy path to check into my homebase for the next 48 hours, the magnificent Hotel Bergkristall, a luxurious ski-in/ski-out establishment in Oberlech, one of Europe’s most elegant, car-free alpine villages. Like its neighbor Lech (which was the late Princess Diana’s fave ski resort), Oberlech has been a playground for royals, and affluent folks looking for a more low-key and ostentation-free winter holiday destination for generations.

Full disclosure, I’ve skied, stayed, and even golfed in Lech a number of times over the last few years, but have always dreamt of experiencing a ski-in/ski-out holiday on the high alpine Oberlech plateau, which is considered to be one of the sunniest in the entire Arlberg region. As you’re about to find out, my recent time there (early January 2025) met and exceeded all my expectations. Here’s what my 48 hours in Oberlech looked, felt, and even tasted like, hope you like it as much as I did…

Itinerary

With fabulous spa facilities, and an unbelievably delicious in-house restaurant, pretty much everything you would need or want before, after, or even during a ski day is at your fingertips at this 4-star superior ski-in/ski-out hotel with heartstopping views of the surrounding mountains. Owned and operated by the Wrann family and their incredibly friendly staff, Hotel Bergkristall has just over 120 rooms spread out into two sections – the main building and the “Spa Chalet”, with a super convenient underground tunnel connecting them. My very spacious and elegantly decorated room was located in the Spa Chalet with very easy access to wellness facilities, which included a Finnish sauna, a bio sauna, a salt inhalation room, and relaxation lounges with gorgeous panoramic views – the perfect way to spend my afternoons after skiing and a few après drinkeepoos.

After a very refreshing post-check-in visit to the spa, I met some local friends at the Hotel Bergkristall for dinner. Bergkristall’s restaurant has a fantastic bar and a formidable selection of wine and Champagne, which we extensively explored before making our menu selections. I found myself in the mood for some Italian food, so I absolutely devoured a heavenly Vitello Tonnato (thinly sliced chilled veal with a creamy tuna/mayo flavored sauce with capers) as a starter. For my main, I opted for an exquisitely prepared dish of calamari served with herb and garlic linguine, and freshly sauteed tomatoes that tasted like they were parachuted into Oberlech from Sicily that afternoon! When dessert time rolled around, I decided to move my appetite back to the Arlberg as I clocked Gebackene Apfelringe mit vanillasoße (baked apple rings with vanilla sauce) on the menu, an Austrian classic that I simply can’t resist, and my goodness it was delicious!

My regular go-to for breakfast in the Austrian Alps usually involves freshly prepared egg dishes of some kind or other, and ungodly helpings of freshly baked breads and cold cuts. But for my first breakfast at the Hotel Bergkristall I was irresistibly drawn to the buffet’s self-serve sausage station for Austrian-style “hot dogs” – not unlike the ones I often purchase from “Würstelstand” street food vendors in Vienna – who sell sausages, and what we would call hot dogs, enveloped by hollowed-out baguette-style bread. OMG what a treat it was!

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again, “Yes you can have friends on Powder Days,” especially if they’re local ski guides who can navigate the mountain blindfolded. I hit the jackpot with Raphael Meier, a well-known local ski instructor and alpine guide who literally grew on the mountain (more on that upcoming).

I met up with “Raphi” (aka “The Raphinator” – not to be confused with ski legend Hermann Maier aka “The Herminator”) in Lech where I picked up some rentals at Strolz (possibly THE BEST ski shop in the world). Minutes later we were zipping up to the top of  Lech via the Kriegerhornbahn chairlift. An overnight snowstorm had decorated the mountain with a good 6-8 inches of fresh icing sugar, and it was still dumping. With limited visibility above the treeline we shredded our way down the hill and logged some powder laps amongst the tall pines found on the lower half of the mountain, not too far from Oberlech and the Hotel Bergkristall.

In terms of ski stats, Oberlech, as well as nearby Lech/Zürs and St. Anton, are part of the expansive Arlberg ski area, which is the largest in Austria with more than 85 lifts, 300km of groomed pistes, and over 200km of marked powder runs. Whatever you’re into, whether it’s cruising groomers or serious off-piste, you’ll find it here.

With a very respectable amount of vertical under our belts, we switched from skier mode into tourist mode.

“Would you like to ski to Skyspace-Lech, I know there will be untracked powder on the way there, and you can check out our famous James Turrell art installation?” Raphi asked me a few hours into our morning session.

When I told him I’d been to Skyspace (you can read about that here) during a golf trip in summer, but had never seen it in winter, and would love to check it out on skis, Raphi smiled, winked and said, “Follow me zen,” in his wonderfully Austrian accent!

After painting the mountain with fresh lines on our skis, we schussed through untracked, knee-deep pow right to the doorstep of Turrell’s marvellous underground light room, and popped inside for a little peek. This unique art installation has a retractable opening on the top, but during the winter it is closed because it would be snowed-in if left open. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth seeing when the snow flies. The inner sanctum of the room is lit by artificial light, and the effects of color and the shape on the space inside will definitely affect your perception of the world – both inside and outside.

Mr. Turrell’s amazing Skyspace-Lech opened the doors of our collective perception, but it also did a number on our appetites.

“Are you hungry Mike?” Raphi asked me as we walked out Turrell’s amazing art installation.

“How about a simple, ski-in/ski-out farmer’s lunch right on the mountain? We can go have some bread, cheese, and a beer in my family’s hut where I spent a lot of time while growing up,” Meier asked me as we clicked back into our skis after having our minds blown at Skyspace.

“Will this mean we have to hike for hours through the backcountry to get to your place?” I asked Raphi with a definite “not in the mood to hike and sweat on skis for hours” tone in my voice.

“No, no, definitely not,” Raphi replied. “Our hut is right next to one of the main pistes, maybe a ten minute cruise from right here, super easy,” he added.

Ten minutes later we found ourselves on the doorstep of the Meier family hut, a rustic, cozy, ruff hewn wooden cabin that’s been in Raphi’s family for generations. Once inside, the dream of every beer-loving skier who’s been lucky enough to rip in the Austrian Alps – a table laid out with chilled Stiegl beer “tallboys” and a nearby shelf stacked with Schnaps!

After a nice little lunch of delicious homemade bread, cheese, cured meats and a nice frosty Stiegl, we locked the Meier hut back up, skied for another couple of hours and skied right back to the front door of the Hotel Bergkristall. What an absolutely incredible day, vielen dank Raphitor if you’re reading this!

Imagine you’ve had a long, and really, really, fun but tiring day skiing – and you’re starving and  craving Mexican food, and Japanese Sashimi – but are also in the mood for a nice creamy mushroom soup, and maybe a rib-eye steak with frites…and then you walk into the in-house restaurant of the posh ski hotel you’re staying at and the menu of the day has ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING you’re dreaming of! How would that make you feel?

Well I can tell you from experience, it’s a really great feeling. Hats off to the mindreaders in the Hotel Bergkristall’s amazing kitchen for coming up with an unbelievably delicious prawn & guacamole “amuse geule” starter, followed up with lightly seared Tuna Tataki on a bed of mushy peas, an uber-creamy Cappuccino of porcini mushrooms (soup) served with thyme sticks, and melt in your mouth slices of rib-eye steak with a side of Café de Paris crispy potatoes and green beans. OMG hitting the jackpot twice (first was The Raphinator) in one day in Oberlech…what are the odds?  Oh, and the delectable dessert duo of mini chocolate soufflé and chocolate mouse tartelette were also amazing even if they weren’t on my dream cravings list.

With Wednesday’s stormy weather gone, and blue skies and sunshine in the daily ski forecast, I decided to go for some classic, made-to-order “sunny side up” eggs (eggs btw in Austria look and taste incredibly fresh) with some freshly sliced Emmental cheese and perfectly cooked bacon. Paired with a jaw dropping panoramic view of the mountains I would shortly be skiing down, a large pile of charcuterie, and a pannier full of freshly baked breads and pastries, another fabulous breakfast at this wonderful hotel was quickly history.

For over 60 years the famed Weiße Ring has been a bucket list ski circuit experience for skiers who travel to Lech/Zürs am Arlberg. Connecting Lech with the villages of Zürs, Zug, and Oberlech, this extremely well-marked trail takes about a half day to complete. There are four starting points on this 22 km long circuit,  a ton of mountain huts you can stop in for lunch or snack breaks, and a couple of panoramic platforms with phenomenal 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks just begging to be selfied.

On this gorgeous sunny day I skied it with a couple of friends. After skiing down the mountain from Oberlech, we started the circuit from the Rüfikopfbahn cable car in Lech bright and early in the morning. After a few snack stops and some après beverages in Lech, we skied our way back to the doorstep of the Hotel Bergkristall in the early afternoon. One of the highlights of this circuit is the challenging Madloch downhill run and it’s a beaut!  Skiers can access it via the Rüfikopf cable car, or the Seekopfbahn chairlift. The Madloch is definitely not to be missed if you’re in the area – one of the most spectacular runs you’ll ever rip down for sure!

One of my favorite spots for après in Lech is the outdoor patio at the Hotel Krone. With my gear being delivered down to Lech from the Hotel Bergkristall and a late afternoon taxi/train ride to my next destination which wasn’t too far away, I joined my ski pals for one last libation at this lively bar where the people watching is almost as  good as the drinks and dining choices! I love Irish Coffee, and the bar staff at Hotel Krone make one of the best versions I’ve ever had. If you’re not in the mood for caffeine and alcohol, order yourself a nice cold beer (they’ve got just about any kind you can imagine) or a classic “Williams Schnaps mit frucht” (Williams pear schnaps garnished with a slice of pear).

MORE INFO ON OBERLECH: 

Oberlech has a wide assortment of hotels for every budget. For my visit, I chose the very conveniently located and luxurious ski-in/ski-out Hotel Bergkristall, a four-star superior establishment with its own fabulous spa and exquisite in-house restaurant. For more information on this beautiful hotel, go to: https://bergkristall-lech.at/en/

For more info about Oberlech and Lech, go to: https://www.lechzuers.com/en/the-region/oberlech-am-arlberg

Getting to Lech: Lech is easily accessible via train, bus, and car, and is only a 2.25-hour drive from Zurich Airport or a 1.45-hour drive from Innsbruck Airport. For more information on how to get to Lech, go to: https://www.lechzuers.com/en/arriving