Heaven – whether you believe it exists in a religious cosmological sense, or simply like to use it as an idiomatic expression to describe delightful perfection – we can all agree – is a place we’d like to experience firsthand sometime.

As a devout golfer and skier, I’ve always dreamt of going to a place where you can do both.

This past September I found my little slice of heaven in Zell am See-Kaprun, Austria, a charming little resort town on the shores of a breathtaking alpine lake surrounded by towering snow capped mountains which are home to some of the best skiing in the Alps, and a magnificent golf club with two spectacular 18-hole courses.

Some of you may already be familiar with Zell am See and its next door neighbor Kaprun, who host the Ski&Golf World Championship every May. During this magical time, when golf and ski seasons overlap, some of the planet’s most passionate practitioners of these two sports roll into town to compete in a giant slalom race on the nearby Kitzsteinhorn Glacier, and then in a golf competition at the prestigious Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun-Saalbach, to see who will be crowned the world’s best combined skier and golfer.

While I could have golfed and skied during my late summer visit as the mountains surrounding Zell am See-Kaprun got pounded by a freak September snow storm, I opted to keep my athletic focus on the greener side of town. What you’ll read next is a quick peek at where I golfed, dined, stayed and played in this truly heavenly part of the world.

GOLFING IN ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN 

There are many beautiful golf holes on the planet, and one of the most gorgeous, a marvelous, crescent-shaped 400 yard dogleg par 4, sits in a lush verdant valley in the shadow of a gigantic mountain glacier, not very far from one of the world’s most stunning alpine lakes.

“This is No. 11, the signature hole on our Kitzsteinhorn course, and as you can see it’s got quite a special view,” Walter Dabernig, managing director of Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun-Saalbach told me just before he launched a mammoth drive towards the majestic Kitzsteinhorn peak on the distant horizon, where the mountains kiss the sky.

As we drove to his ball, parked in “position A” in the center of the fairway about 130 yards from the pin, Dabernig gave me a quick rundown of the club’s two courses.

“We have 36 holes on a relatively flat piece of land between some extremely scenic mountains, and for a so-called ‘mountain golf club’ both of our courses are quite easy to walk as we are on the valley floor with very little elevation change. On the right side we have the 18-hole Kitzsteinhorn course which is 6510 yards, and on the left side we have our 18-hole championship course called Schmittenhöhe, which is 6870 yards long. We are also part of Austria’s ‘Leading Golf Courses’ group, which means we have higher standards we have to maintain than the average course,”  Dabernig added.

After playing a few more holes together on the Kitzsteinhorn track which was not open to the public due to course maintenance during my stay, Dabernig dropped me off at the club’s state of the art training facility, and into the very capable hands of head pro Markus Teubner, who would be my playing partner on the the Schmittenhöhe course.

“Before we play, the most important question,” Teubner asked as we drove to the first tee.

“Did Walter show you our very unique, underground self-serve beer cooler stations on holes 5, 8, and 14?” he asked, referring to a trio of ingenious, subterranean beer dispensers that pop out of the ground with ice cold bottles of beer that cost a mere 2 Euros each – with proceeds going towards a post-season party for the groundskeeping staff.

“Yes I did!” I exclaimed proudly showing Teubner a video and a selfie of me and the magical underground beer dispensary.

“OK great, now that your joints are well lubricated, let’s go play some golf!” he said with a grin.

The Schmittenhöhe course was both a beauty and a beast. Like the Kitzsteinhorn track, Schmittenhöhe is a predominantly flat parkland course, only longer, and slightly tougher. The views of the surrounding peaks of Austria’s Hohe Tauern range are phenomenal, most especially holes facing the Kitzsteinhorn peak and glacier. I found it difficult to focus on many holes as I was overcome by the incredible views, and the overall radiance of a course that is pristinely manicured to the nth degree.

Water hazards on this course come in the form of small lakes, reed-bordered ponds that are more than eager to gobble up wayward shots. Schmittenhöhe also has an abundance of extremely well placed, and well maintained bunkers in hyper-strategic locations that will suck the joy out of any bombs you hit that dare to tangle with them. In terms of difficulty, there are no silly or unfair holes, and if you can survive the brutal gauntlet of holes one through six your scorecard will thank you profusely.

I’m still having nightmares about Schmittenhöhe’s fourth hole –  a devilishly difficult 413 yard par 4 that is easy if you can hit 330 yard drives like Rory McIlroy. But for most of us who hit drives in the 225-275 yard zone, there is a pond that comes into play narrowing the fairway into the eye of a needle right about where your ball will land or roll into. And if the protruding pond doesn’t scare you, your legs will surely buckle in your backswing when you scope out the terrifying OB treeline on the right side of the fairway from tee box to green with zero room for error. I marked a 7 on my scorecard on this hole and was glad it wasn’t more punishing.

“I feel your pain,” Teubner told me with a giggle, as he heard me quietly mumble a few choice profanities to myself as we walked off the green on No. 4.

“I’m a local, a Zell am See native, and I grew up playing this course so I know exactly how you feel. At first glance you might think this course is easy because there are some open areas on the fairways, but the reality is we have some very tight holes, elevated greens, lots of sand traps, and some challenging water situations, like here on number four, which just happens to be one of my favorite holes on the course. Yes it’s a very challenging hole, but also very, very, rewarding when you learn to master it. I’ve learned through experience that two iron shots are the way to go on this hole, and I think you’ll enjoy it more the next time you play it,” said Teubner.

Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun-Saalbach is open to the public from April to November. It it an absolute, under-the-radar gem of a golf club that will make you wish you had an Austrian passport and a summer home in Zell am See!

DINING IN ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN

RESTAURANT ZUM METZGERWIRT

Located in the heart of Zell am See’s old town section, in a stunning 15th-century inn, Zum Metzgerwirt is one of the most popular restaurants in the area for folks looking for hearty, traditional Austrian home cooking. I absolutely adore Austrian classics like Wiener Schnitzel, knödels, and apple strudel, and hit the jackpot at this fabulous, family-run restaurant. I started my meal with an out of this world “Pilzecremesuppe” (mushroom cream soup), and followed it up with a Wiener Schnitzel, a ridiculously scrumptious “hausgemacht” (homemade) apricot Zwetschkenknödel (apricot dumplings), and a few nibbles of deletable apple strudel from a friend’s plate. This wonderful restaurant is absolute Austrian cuisine heaven!

RESTAURANT SPORTRESORT ALPENBLICK

Just about everything and anything you can think of that could be or should be on a menu at a high end luxury mountain resort restaurant in Austria is available to order at Sportresort Alpenblick’s fantastic in-house restaurant.

Dining choices are vast, seasonal, and made with locally sourced ingredients. A six course daily set menu is always available, but if you’re not in the mood for the culinary goodies created by Chef Patrick Bayer and his talented team, you can order something else à la carte, or opt for the hotel’s daily buffet and its zillion different offerings.

My favorite dish – and there were many – was Chef Bayer’s take on Caprese salad, an Italian classic, which tasted like gelato made from the most delicious tomatoes you’ve ever tasted on a bed of emerald green basil purée, with a side of whipped mozzarella. OMG!!!

GIPFEL RESTAURANT

Having opted not to ski before my rounds of golf during my stay in Zell am See, I was still eager to see the famed Kitzsteinhorn Glacier in nearby Kaprun where the giant slalom portion of the Ski&Golf World Championship is held. So I drove over to Kaprun with a local friend (about 15 minutes by car) and hopped on a few gondolas and chairlifts for a little morning hike and breakfast at the panoramic Gipfel Restaurant at almost 10,000 feet above sea level.

Breakfast at this wonderful restaurant is outstanding. You can order a full table service breakfast with breads, viennoiseries, cured meats, jams, juices, coffees, and cheeses (including champagne or sparkling wine) at this lovely restaurant, or pick stuff up yourself cafeteria style.

The only thing more spectacular than the champagne breakfast spread at our window table were the mind blowing views of the snow covered Hohe Tauern mountains from our window, and from the “Top of Salzburg” outdoor scenic viewing platform on what was a perfect bluebird day.

RESTAURANT BERGHOTEL SCHMITTENHÖHE

Another top notch, high altitude location for a morning meal with a view in Zell am See is breakfast at the Berghotel on the tippy, tippy, top of the Schmittenhöhe peak that towers directly above town. Just like at Gipfel Restaurant, it’s cross valley neighbor, the food and views are fabulous!  I highly recommend ordering the homemade yogurt with fresh strawberries and apple slices which was absolutely fabulous!

ACCOMMODATION IN ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN

On the advice of some local friends, I chose the upscale, four-star Sportresort Alpenblick as my golfing home base while in Zell am See, and during check-in, I bumped into its very gracious, and gregarious owner Georg Segl, who offered to show me around his wonderful hotel.

After a grand tour of Sportresort Alpenblick’s chic bars, lounges, dining areas, and fabulously vast spa and wellness facilities, as we stood at a door next to a big red sign (made out of a vintage ski)  with the words “Ski Museum” emblazoned across it, I looked at Herr Segl with a distressed look.

“I really think I chose the wrong place to stay,” I confessed, as Herr Segl looked at me with a horrified look on his face.

“Why do you say this Michael?  What is it about our hotel that you don’t like?” he asked.

“It’s the in-house ski museum and general decor of your hotel,” I replied pointing to surrounding walls and stairways decorated with vintage ski equipment and artwork.

“I’m the world’s biggest ski nerd, and I’m going to want to spend all my time here obsessing over your unbelievable ski museum instead of focussing on golf which is the reason why I came to Zell am See,” I added with a wink and a chuckle.

“Ahhhh, okay I see what you’re saying, and I’m sure you’ll be fine,” Segl told me with a hearty laugh.

Seriously speaking though, I could not have chosen a better hotel as Sportresort Alpenblick has the look and feel of a sporty grand hotel, but in actuality has the soul of a family home. The hotel itself sits on the site of a “gasthaus” (which is German for “inn”) that dates back to 1493.

“In 1936 my great grandparents bought the gasthaus, and since then it’s been renovated, expanded and always family run. Right now my wife Christine and I are taking care of it, but we have four kids, and we will see if any of them want to take it over or not. Our ultimate aim is to make people happy when they visit, and hopefully we can do that for another 500 years,” Segl added with a smile.

My room was very spacious and elegantly decorated, with a large living room area next to a king size bed facing a panoramic window overlooking the mountains soaring above Zell am See. When I wasn’t in it, I found myself gravitating towards the hotel’s very plush and welcoming bar and lounge area after post-golf spa sessions in Sportresort Alpenblick’s huge, two story wellness area – which had several different relaxation areas with some of the cushiest, and most inviting beds and loungers I’ve ever seen in a spa facility. Two of the most inviting chill-out zones were located outside, one on a massive outdoor patio by a small pool with umbrellas and loungers that made me think I was at a swanky South Beach hotel in Miami. The other, an oasis of outdoor calm, sat by a larger outdoor pool in the wellness wing – with beds, sofas, and absolutely stunning views of the mountains on all sides.

It became very clear to me early on, that the staff and administrators of this hotel are keen to make their guests feel at home during their visits…and there is nothing better than feeling like you’re at home, when you’re not at home!

OTHER FUN STUFF TO DO IN ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN

ZELL AM SEE BOAT CRUISE AND OTHER WATER ACTIVITIES

Lake Zell, the town’s watery namesake, may not be the largest (at 2.5 miles in length, and just under a mile at its widest point) or deepest lake in the world (at 239 feet), but it’s definitely one of the most beautiful bodies of freshwater on the planet as it sits like a blue sapphire surrounded by a crown of skyscaping mountains on all sides.

“It’s the combination of the lake, the glacier, and the mountains, that makes Zell am See so special whole year round,” Magdalena Putz, PR and Media Manager for the town’s tourist board told me as we toured the lake on the MS Schmittenhöhe, a scenic cruise boat that is very popular with tourists, on my first night at the resort.

“We have a lot of areas where you can get into the lake which makes it very special. Lake Zell  is owned by the town and that’s the reason why it’s so accessible for locals and visitors. We have four ‘lidos’ (beach areas) where people can go swimming, and the water has the quality of drinking water. You can go sailing, paddleboarding, or just relax on a cruise boat that takes you around the lake and have a coffee and dessert,” Putz added just as a tray of coffee and croissants reached our open-air table on the top deck.

SKI MUSEUM ZELL AM SEE

Whether you’re an avowed ski nerd (like myself) or simply a lover of ski gear and vintage memorabilia, do yourself a favor and pay the Ski Museum Zell am See in the Sportresort Alpenblick Hotel  a visit when you’re in the area. The collection includes skis, boots, poles, clothing, and artwork from the beginning of the sport to present day…and if you look really carefully you may even see a wonderful photograph of the hotel’s proprietor Georg Segl decked out in turn of the 20th century ski gear, racing like it’s in 1899!

KAISERBLICK PANORAMIC PLATFORM

For breathtaking views of Austria’s famed Grossglockner and Dachstein mountain ranges, and more than thirty 10,000 foot plus peaks, you may want to pencil in a stroll down Zell am See’s 100 foot long Kaiserblick Panoramic Platform when you’re exploring the area. Located just above town, and accessible via gondola, the Kaiserblick walkway will give you an absolutely stupendous view of Zell am See – that is, if you’re not in a completely catatonic state (as I was) after foolishly looking down through the glass floor section of this remarkable platform!

MORE INFO ON ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN: 

To find out more about Zell am See-Kaprun go to: https://www.zellamsee-kaprun.com/en

For more information about playing at Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun-Saalbach go to: https://www.golf-zellamsee.at/en/

Zell am See-Kaprun has a wide assortment of hotels for every budget. For my visit I selected the four-star Sportresort Alpenblick Hotel. For more information on this beautiful hotel go to: https://www.alpenblick.at/en/

For more information about boat tours in Zell am See go to:

https://www.zellamsee-kaprun.com/en/experience/attractions/boat-trips

For more information about Ski Museum Zell am See go to:

https://www.zellamsee-kaprun.com/en/poi/skimuseum-zell-am-see~9448

For more information about the Kaiserblick Panoramic Platform go to:

https://www.zellamsee-kaprun.com/en/poi/panoramic-platform-kaiserblick~9983

GETTING TO ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN:

Zell am See-Kaprun is easily accessible via train, bus, and car and is only a 2 hour drive from Munich Airport or 45 minute drive from Salzburg Airport. For more information on how to get to Zell am See go to: https://www.zellamsee-kaprun.com/en/service/arrival

Featured Golf Zell am See