If you’re addicted to golf, but had no idea that there is a thriving community of like-minded ball-strikers in the Swiss mountain towns of Davos and Klosters, it’s highly unlikely anyone local would be offended. Davos, after all, is well known for its epic alpine skiing, but mention the name of this bustling mountain town to any random person, and they’re more likely to recognize it as the place where the Illuminati of the global financial community rub shoulders at the World Economic Forum every January like Swiss clockwork. Klosters, on the other hand, Davos’ idyllic, postcard village cousin on the other side of the mountain is perhaps best known as the ski area of choice of HM King Charles III, King of the United Kingdom, who’s been shredding its magnificent slopes for the last 45 years.

So when I discovered Davos (which is the highest town in Europe at 5120 feet) and Klosters were home to 27 holes of unbelievably scenic golf on two absolutely fabulous courses, I knew I had to pay them a visit – so I did just that in early September with my great friend and golf guru Neil Collingswood, who lives and works on Scotland’s Golf Coast, a chip and a putt away from North Berwick’s world-renowned West Links course.

When Mr. Collingswood is not making birdies at North Berwick’s Glen Club, his home club, or hitting golf balls over ancient stone walls at West Links, Mr. Collingswood is often busy traveling around Scotland reviewing golf courses. Having never stepped foot on a mountain golf course in his life, I thought it would be fun to elevate Neil’s game in a very literal sense, and asked him to join me on a four-stop “Best of the Alps” golf tour through Italy, France, and Switzerland.

All the golf courses we played were located at resorts that are members of the Best of the Alps group, a conglomeration of 10 of Europe’s most prestigious ski and golf mountain destinations. Each one had its own distinct vibe, and we quickly discovered that not all mountain golf courses are the same, and we mean that in a good way! Here then is a quick peek at our time in Davos/Klosters, Switzerland,  which may serve some of you as a golfing, dining, and accommodation “yardage book” of sorts for your trip out to this incredible part of the golfing world.

GOLFING IN DAVOS/KLOSTERS

If you’re a real junkie, and playing 27 holes in one day is not an issue, start your morning with 18 holes at Golf Club Davos (which has been around since 1929) and then drive over (or take a quick train) to Klosters for the golfing equivalent of a 9-hole roller coaster ride at Golf Club Klosters (which was designed by Canadian golf course architect Les Furber, opened in 2004, and is certified by the GEO foundation for sustainable golf). Playing these two very different tracks, back-to-back is like spending a day at Walt Disney World with a Park Hopper ticket. Each course is a very different ride, but the massive smile on your face at the end of the day is most definitely a result of the combo you’ve just experienced.

If golf truly is your passion, by the end of your day, after starting in Davos, on its grand, 18-hole mountain masterpiece, and finishing on the Klosters 9-hole course, you will be beyond giddy – and trust me when I say the muscles in your face will be hurting from smiling so hard. I will never forget setting up for a shot while listening to a symphony of moos and clanging bells from a huge herd of milk cows directly next to the tee box (No. 17 par 3 at Golf Club Davos), or the incredibly fun par 5 No. 6 at Golf Club Klosters, where you have to hit past two giant hay barns, and your partner (in my case a local friend) tells you that pinging one off the roof is actually a great way to attack the hole…and then you ping one off the roof and absolutely lose your mind and gleefully go berserk!

I won’t keep droning on and on about how much fun I had playing these two magical golf courses, as it’s clear they both cast a spell on me! So let’s see what Mr. Collingswood thought about them in his own words…

MR. COLLINGSWOOD’S GOLF COURSE REVIEW

“Our fourth golf outing took us further east along the Swiss Alps to the beautiful ski valley town of Davos. The valley floor, which includes both Davos town and the golf course, is considerable and flat; surely something to do with ancient glaciers and water; and is surrounded by majestic mountains that provide an amphitheater of awesomeness. You’d be forgiven for thinking you are at sea level here but the reality is you are at 5120 feet. The clubhouse at Golf Club Davos is in keeping with the rustic, woody, alpine feel, and sympathetically blends in with the ski town vibe. The clubhouse has a fabulous menu and a comfy and spacious patio for pre or post-golf dining.

With an early morning tee-off, I was looking forward to what the golf offered in such a special location. I’d seen flashes of the course when approaching on the train and hotel transfer the day before, but it wasn’t until we stepped out of the car that I realized how stunning this location is. Golf Club Davos definitely has a parkland feel, a combination of lush grass, thinly spread pine deciduous trees, water features, and a babbling stream combine to great effect.

Each hole has its own character, and each part of the course its own vibe. Holes 1, and 15-18, exist on the ‘darker’ side of the road where you’re never far from the sloping pines of the hillside – the holes here feel tighter and encourage strategic thinking. Holes 2-14 exist on the flatter, and perhaps more open, side of the road. The layout works to great effect to produce a real golfing challenge whilst not constantly beating you up over wayward tee shots. Most importantly it does a remarkable job of never repeating itself in terms of design.

I honestly enjoyed the whole layout, every hole has merits, but if pushed to choose, my personal favorites would include hole 3, a tight, hourglass style par 5 with water feature, including fountain, protecting the green front. While not impossible, I doubt there have been many players putting for eagle here, the designers knew what they were setting up!

My next choice may not be as guessable, but for me hole 14 is perfect. It’s a relatively simple par 3 playing 127 yards up a gentle slope with generous green protected by 2 green front bunkers. From the tee it feels ‘open’ and apart from a babbling brook to cross at 60 yards, the view of the green promotes optimism. Every good golf course should mix difficult par 3s with ‘easier’ par 3s, and hole 14 provides exactly that, and at exactly the right time.

Golf Club Davos, as an 18-hole golf course coexists with the houses, streets and hotels of the town, even requiring occasional moments of ‘on-road’ driving to get from green to tee box, but it’s important to note that the golf design/layout always remains private and secluded. It’s all rather clever and so very beautiful. A huge nod to the designers, Donald Harradine and Kurt Rossknecht, who have managed to carve such a memorable layout from the land provided, and that’s the key here, it’s memorable. Long after you’ve played you will remember many of the holes and for me, that’s the sign of a great golf course design.

After lunch at the clubhouse (really recommended by the way) we drove 20 minutes to the hamlet of Klosters to sample their 9-hole mountain side course. As we drove towards Klosters I found myself replaying much of Davos in my head and if I’m completely honest, was so impressed with the morning session, I wasn’t really expecting the afternoon to be able to compare. Read on….

Klosters Golf Club is very much a hillside course containing six par 3s, two par 4’s, and a single par 5. Hole 1 should be called ‘rope a dope’. A relatively simple straight par 3 into a flattish green, and it completely doesn’t represent what lies ahead! The remaining 8 holes differ from each other to such an extent, both in design and play style, that you are guaranteed one of the happiest golf experiences ever. I don’t want to give the game away too much as you need to experience this afresh but imagine a collector who’s dedicated their existence to finding 8 of the most fun and unique holes anywhere in the world and brought their designs together in one of the most picturesque settings anywhere, and you’ll start to get close to what Klosters offers. It may be quirky, and slightly bonkers in parts, but overall it’s a golfing equivalent of a roller coaster, as my friend Mr. Mastarciyan pointed out earlier, and that leaves you with the same elated feeling at the end. Bravo.”

DINING IN DAVOS/KLOSTERS

RESTAURANT WALSERHUUS SERTIG

Before I wax poetic about how delicious the food at this traditional Swiss restaurant is, and how it specializes in centuries old local dishes from the Graubünden (aka Grisons) canton of Switzerland, let me say this: the drive to Walserhuus, located in the heavenly Sertig Valley just south of Davos, was one of THE MOST scenic, jaw-dropping, breathtaking car rides I’ve ever experienced through the Swiss Alps. The food is fabulous at this restaurant, but truth be told, the drive into this valley, that follows a path carved by prehistoric glaciers, is unbelievable, and worth it on its very own.

If you’re able to make the trek into the Sertig Valley before the snow flies, you’ll see shades of green that you never knew existed, and if you hit it at sunset as we did, you’ll see hues of orange vermilion that will never leave your soul! Oh, and before you go into Walserhuus, walk over to the little babbling brook in front of the restaurant and say hello to the family of mountain goats who love to graze on its banks…the babies are beyond adorable.

OK so let’s talk about food. Walserhuus Sertig has a massive menu with a wide variety of locally sourced, seasonal options for meat eaters and vegetarians alike. You can order anything from a cheese fondue to Château Briand at this charming, very Swiss, family-run restaurant and hotel. For my meal, I decided to go full-on “Walser” in honor of the Germanic people who settled in the area in the 13th century, and only ordered local delicacies, most of which are very specific to the Sertig Valley.

For a mealtime bevvie, I ordered a delicious Monsteiner, a very refreshing beer from a nearby Davos brewery (which is actually the highest elevation brewery in Switzerland) that tasted like a lager and wheat beer hybrid. Next up from the “Soul Warmer” section of Walserhuus’ menu was a very yummy Grisons barley soup called “Bündner Gerstensuppe” which could have been a meal on its own. Once the soup was history I moved on to “Capuns” a very popular local dish which was almost like a brick of lasagna filled with finely sliced country sausage (würst) wrapped in chard leaves, and submerged in a bowl of super scrumptious “Käserahmsauce” (a creamy mountain cheese sauce)…absolute heaven!

I could have easily stopped after the Capuns course, but really wanted to experience trout – freshly caught from a crystal clear alpine lake right in the heart of the Sertig Valley. If you’re visiting Walserhuus, and “Forellenfilet Sertiger Art CH” is on card – order it! The trout was beyond perfect – sauteed in brown herb butter, and served with delicious locally grown veggies.

Dessert, which I couldn’t resist was a “Bergheu” parfait layered with honey-almond ice cream, whipped cream, and homemade Heuschnaps, which is an apple-pear schnapps. I was encouraged to pair it with a snifter of “Munggefurz” which translates to Marmot Fart…yes I said fart.  It should be noted that marmots are well loved woodland creatures in this part of Switzerland – so much so,  that the yardage markers at Golf Club Davos are beautifully carved, wooden Marmot statues. I can guarantee all of you out there that the Munngefurz I swished back with my parfait was not stinky, and it won’t be my last!

GOLF CLUB DAVOS CLUBHOUSE

If you have time after your round at Golf Club Davos, and are up for a drink or a meal, the clubhouse restaurant at this wonderful golf club is an excellent option. Having golfed in Switzerland before, I couldn’t stop thinking about the ice cold “Golfer” I was going to guzzle after we finished up on 18. There are plenty of beer and other alcohol options on offer at this restaurant, but truth be told, the “Golfer” (pink grapefruit juice and tonic water) is Switzerland’s national golf drink, and it’s soooooo delicious.

The menu choices at GC Davos Clubhouse are ample, with a massive selection of soups, sandwiches and starters, but what stands out most is this restaurant’s incredible selection of Italian dishes and pizzas. I am a devout lasagna lover, so I couldn’t resist the temptation to try a lasagna in the land of fabulous cheese. I did not go wrong, the clubhouse lasagna was exquisite! My golfing companions also sampled the pizzas, and they were spectacular, and this is based on first-hand knowledge as they were both in a sharing mood with their slices!

DA ELIO

Another great dining establishment in Davos (we were really in the mood for Italian fare while in town) is Da Elio, a very popular Italian eatery with fabulous food and a lively atmosphere.

Menu selection at Da Elio is a bit overwhelming, as there is so much to choose from. Whether you’re vegetarian, pescatarian, or dare I say it, “meatarian” you will have zero issues finding something to order here. Given my weakness for eggplant dishes, I ordered a “Tortelloni ripieni di melanzane e ricotta al pomodoro e stracciatella” (tortelloni filled with aubergines and cheese with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese) which was pure perfection.

ACCOMMODATION IN DAVOS/KLOSTERS

As I’m a huge fan of ski-in/ski-out hotels, when I realized we could stay and play at Golf Club Davos by booking rooms at the four-star Hotel Waldhuus Davos just behind the first green of the course I was very intrigued!

This fabulous “chalet-style” 108 room hotel with beautifully decorated, wood-paneled suites and rooms, is about as golf-in/golf-out as you can get. You can walk to the clubhouse or drive over in about 30 seconds, which was super convenient. My room had a gorgeous balcony overlooking the mountains, with towering pine trees I felt like I could touch. The hotel also has a fantastic restaurant which we enjoyed for breakfast before golf with an unbelievable selection of hot and cold options. My morning faves were the made-to-order omelets which were cooked to perfection.

We also noticed a bunch of pint-sized putters sitting behind the reception desk when we checked in. Turns out Hotel Waldhuus Davos has its very own 9-hole (very family friendly) mini-golf track on site which we’ll definitely give a go next time we visit as we were more focussed on spa time after our rounds.

Speaking of spas, the wellness facilities at Hotel Waldhuus Davos are outstanding. Our post-golf ritual included Finnish sauna sessions, laps in the indoor pool, cold showers, and 20-minute power snoozes in the super chill relaxation room.

If golfing and pampering yourself in spas in the Swiss Alps are your thing, you will absolutely adore Hotel Waldhuus Davos!

OTHER FUN STUFF TO DO IN DAVOS/KLOSTERS

If you’ve got time on your hands and want to incorporate other activities into your golf trip to Davos/Klosters there is a ton of other fun stuff to experience during your visit. Mountain biking, hiking (700 kms of trails), trail running (you can book a guided run), climbing, paragliding, hang-gliding, archery, disc golf, and horseback riding are all readily available when you’re visiting this beautiful part of the Swiss Alps.

Watersports are also quite popular in Davos/Klosters, and Lake Davos is a wonderful place to take a dip, go paddleboarding, kite surfing, windsurfing, and wakeboarding is splishing and splashing turns your crank. If you don’t mind venturing out a bit, there’s an almost endless supply of alpine lakes and rivers to discover where you can also go rafting or fishing.

MORE INFO ON DAVOS/KLOSTERS:

Davos is part of the prestigious Best of the Alps group of luxury European ski & golf resorts. To find out more about Davos go to: www.bestofthealps.com or https://www.davos.ch/en/ where you can read about both Davos and Klosters.

For more information about playing at 18-Hole Golf Club Davos, click here.

For more information about playing at 9-Hole Golf Club Klosters, click here.

Davos/Klosters has a wide assortment of hotels for every budget. For our stay, we chose the very golfer-friendly, four-star Hotel Waldhuus Davos, located just behind the green on Golf Club Davos hole No. 1. For more information on this beautiful hotel, click here.

Getting to Davos/Klosters: Davos/Klosters is easily accessible via bus, train, or car and is only a two-hour drive from Zurich Airport. We purchased Travel Switzerland’s all-in-one Swiss Travel Pass and took the train from Crans-Montana to Davos. The Swiss Travel Pass lets you use trains, buses, and boats with one ticket for 3, 4, 6, 8, or 15 days. This pass will also get you into over 500 museums in Switzerland for free, as well as get you discounts on other travel-related excursions in Switzerland.

For more information on the Swiss Travel Pass, click here.

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