Normally, the only time golfers have heart palpitations is when they tear into a course parking lot with only five minutes to spare before their tee time. This is NOT the case when you play the stunningly gorgeous Golf Club Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses located in Italy’s heavenly Aosta Valley – as no matter how early you get to this magnificent 9 hole, 5914 yard (Par 70 when played twice) mountain golf gem, your heart will be pounding out of your chest when you pull into the parking lot, and look up at the 15,000 foot peaks soaring above your head!

Designed and built in the 1930s by Peter Gannon, and revamped in the 1940s by English golf legend Henry Cotton (who won The Open Championship in 1934, 1937, and 1948), GC Courmayeur sits in the shadow of Monte Bianco (aka Mont Blanc – Western Europe’s highest mountain at 15,774 feet) and directly below the gargantuan Grandes Jorasses chain of the Mont Blanc massif.

If you’re a skier who is also addicted to golf, this majestic mountain course is an absolute must-see and must-play. I had the good fortune of popping into Courmayeur to play this fabulous track in late August with my great friend and golf guru Neil Collingswood, who lives and works on Scotland’s Golf Coast, a sand wedge away from North Berwick’s world renowned West Links course.

When he’s not crushing drives off the towering cliffs at North Berwick’s Glen Club, his home club, or draining putts on the hallowed greens at West Links, Mr. Collingswood is often busy trekking around Scotland reviewing golf courses. Having never played golf in an alpine environment, I thought it would be fun to elevate Neil’s game in a very literal sense, and asked him to join me on a four-stop “Best of the Alps” golf tour through Italy, France, and Switzerland.

All the golf courses we played were located at resorts who are members of the Best of the Alps group, a conglomeration of 10 of Europe’s most prestigious ski and golf mountain destinations. Each one had its own distinct vibe, and we quickly discovered that not all mountain golf courses are the same, and we mean that in a good way! Here then is a quick peek at our time in Courmayeur, which may serve some of you as a golfing, dining, sightseeing, and accommodation “yardage book” of sorts for your trip out to this incredible part of the golfing world.

GOLFING IN COURMAYEUR

The cutesy opening paragraph about heart palpitations was no joke, my chest was legitimately thumping as soon as we pulled into Golf Club Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses when I realized every hole on this course had THE most unbelievable views of the Mont Blanc massif – and full disclosure I don’t have any cardiac ailments in my medical file.

As a devout alpine skier, I was beyond stoked to be golfing at a resort I’d visited before in winter and absolutely adored. Courmayeur is a magical place, a jewel of a ski town, encircled by a crown of jagged alpine peaks. Golf Club Courmayeur itself, is a very short drive into nearby Val Ferret, an extremely picturesque valley where prehistoric glaciers snake down the steep slopes of the Grandes Jorasses section of the Mont Blanc massif.

The course, at 5118 feet above sea level, is flanked by the rippling, turquoise blue waters of the rocky River Dora, which plays like nature’s soundtrack, accompanied by a chorus of birdsong wafting from the lush green forest that surrounds GC Courmayeur’s rugged, rolling fairways.

“You’re very deep inside nature at our club,” course secretary Valentina Corbella told me before I hit my first drive.

“Everywhere you look around is like a portrait, and sometimes you lose your mind about the game, and you get lost in the landscape that is around you.” Corbella added.

Ultimately, I will admit, it was the grace and grandeur of the glaciers constantly looming overhead that had my legs wobbling every time I set up to hit a ball. And in a world of shrinking polar ice caps, and melting glaciers, I was very pleased to discover that sustainability, and respect for nature are front and center at this golf club.

“Our club believes very strongly in sustainability and protecting the environment, and our course is 100% natural, we don’t use chemicals here. We use forks to clean up the greens, we don’t believe in using pesticides and herbicides to remove weeds.” Corbella said.

MR. COLLINGSWOOD’S GOLF COURSE REVIEW

So what was Neil’s take on the course? Here it is in his own words…oh, and keep a copy of this story on your phone or in your golf bag when you play, as Neil has some very handy advice about some of his favorite holes:

“A course’s difficulty rating is a fluid thing that can be influenced by conditions on the day – such as rain and wind for example. However I think I’ve just discovered a new, and hereto unconsidered factor in…beauty.  In Courmayeur, for example, there would be a rational argument for adding a couple of shots to one’s handicap based on distracting beauty alone. For example, I found myself spending way too much time photographing postcard quality shots, and voicing sounds of appreciation, rather than being a stone cold, focused, albeit average, golfer. This place is a truly stunning location for golf. However, the Courmayeur Golf Club isn’t just about the location. There are 9 holes on offer, looped twice, with occasional tee box changes on the back 9, that provide a real golfing challenge, even without the distractions.

Augusta may lay claim to “Amen Corner” but Courmayeur should claim “Oooooh Corner” with holes 5,6 and 8 standing out.

Hole 5 is a dogleg par 5 played from shrub and tree lined tees, and requires an accurate tee shot favoring the right half of the fairway to allow access to the pin. There’s no bailout here. Thick trees and shrubs left and right encourage accuracy, while the left turning dogleg requires a decent distance off the tee. Depending on the distance and position of the tee shot there are options for the tricky second shot. High tariff would be a green seeking second, navigating a ditch that crosses the fairway and two green side bunkers, but the reward could be a potential eagle putt. More often though you’d be wise to play up short of the ditch leaving yourself a short iron in and subsequent birdie chance. Make no mistake, this is a golf hole that requires imagination and planning from both the tee and the fairway

Hole 6 is a personal favorite. Elevated tees and seemingly generous fairway width would normally give confidence to pull a driver from the bag, however the hole design has other ideas. Center fairway, just over 200 yards, lies a water hazard/pond that occupies a generous proportion of the fairway. It’s like a reverse treasure island, but still picturesque and full of danger. So, recommendation would be to play short of the hazard, center fairway, leaving a wedge, or short iron, into the small green. Just be true as danger surrounds anything off the green. Two bunkers, short left and right, await the mis-hit shot while shrubs and trees await the thins, pulls and pushes. Not only is this a lovely design, it’s a test of your game, club choice and accuracy.

Hole 8 is a long par three, played over a fast flowing turquoise blue glacial river where a view of bears hunting salmon wouldn’t be amiss. Playing over 200 yards and with a single bunker left of the green, and 140 to comfortably clear the river, this isn’t time to chunk one. Then again, anything too low and runny is rewarded with a trip off the back and a tricksy up and down. Love it, picturesque and challenging, just what the golfing gods would approve of.”

DINING IN COURMAYEUR

Oh my, dining in Courmayeur, where to start?! There is no bad food in Italia…I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Here’s where we dined during our visit to Courmayeur…

La Padella

If classic Italian and/or local “Valdostane” Aosta Valley cuisine is your thing, La Padella is a fantastic choice. Located in the center of Courmayeur this bustling family restaurant has more than 40 different pizzas on the menu, a host of different antipasti and starters, and a wide range of pastas and grilled meats. The Polenta e Salsiccia (polenta and sausages in tomato sauce) was a standout, as was the scrumptious homemade Tiramisu I inhaled violently before leaving this wonderful restaurant.

Golf Club Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses Clubhouse

Whether you’re a golfer or not, you should definitely visit the Golf Club Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses to savor the incredible, unbelievable, ridiculously amazing food on the menu at this exquisite clubhouse restaurant. I am still dreaming about the rich, tangy, creamy, Aubergine Parmigiana (eggplant parm) I started my post-golf meal with. My main was a fabulously colorful Spaghetti alla chitarra fatti in casa con trota affumicati di Lavachey, pomodorini e basilico – which translated to a heaping plate of homemade spaghetti, topped with smoked trout from nearby Lake Lavachey, cherry tomatoes and basil – pure pasta heaven!!!

Seriously, even if you hate golf, and don’t want to associate with people obsessed with smashing little white golf balls around fairways and greens, DO NOT miss out on this incredible golf club restaurant…and trust me when I say it was THE BEST clubhouse meal I’ve ever had.

La Terrazza

La Terrazza is called La Terrazza because it has a fantastic outdoor terrasse to while away the hours as the sun sets in the middle of Courmayeur’s old town while you’re drinking fabulous local Italian reds (like a Grosjean Vallée D’Aoste Torrette 2022) while devouring local Valdostana cuisine.

I made the excellent decision of ordering Tomino di capra Az Agr Mont Blanc in crosta con mandorle tostate e miele (puff pastry filled with goat cheese, topped with toasted almonds and honey) as my starter, and it was beyond delectable! I followed it up with a mouth watering, grilled to perfection, Filetto di fassona piemontese alla crema di foie gras e tartufo estivo (filet of “fassona” beef with foie gras cream and summer truffle). For dessert, a homemade Panna Cotta with strawberry coulis was the perfect end to a perfect meal.

Hotel Bouton d’Or Breakfast Buffet

Rifle your way through Trip Advisor reviews about this wonderful, family-run boutique hotel, and you’ll notice almost every reviewer mentions how incredible the Bouton d’Or’s breakfast buffet is. I can honestly say the reviews are spot on…and the breakfast buffet at Hotel Bouton d’Or was UNBELIEVABLE!

The boundless assortment of Italian breakfast cookies (I kinda obsess on those), fruit pies and cakes like Crostata di Lamponi (raspberry tart), Torta di Miele di Courmayeur (apple cake), viennoiseries, delicate omelets, Valdostan gourmet cheeses and charcuteries, and beyond perfect espressos and cappuccinos, are worth the price of an overnight stay themselves. Bravo Hotel Bouton d’Or for making breakfast great again!!!

SIGHTSEEING IN COURMAYEUR

There is sooooo much to do in Courmayeur in the summer besides golf. Hiking in the area is absolutely phenomenal with Val Vény and Val Ferret leading the pack with miles and miles of trails of all levels, countless peaks to climb, glacial lakes to brave, and rustic rifugios to drop into for some of the best Italian food on the planet.

If you’re not into hiking, you can easily go biking or e-biking on some of the most breathtaking trails in the world. If pedaling is not your thing, you can stroll the ancient cobblestones of Courmayeur’s old town center and sit down for a meal, go shopping, or people watch while sipping a cappuccino outdoors. But number one on my Courmayeur sightseeing list will always be the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car, something I had experienced in winter, but never before in summer!

A marvel of alpine engineering, a ride on the Skyway Monte Bianco’s rotating cable car gives riders 360 degree views of the verdant Aosta Valley. Once you reach the top, you’ll have panoramic views from the rooftop of Italy at almost 12,000 feet, of some of the most famous, and dramatic mountain peaks in the world (Les Dames Anglaises, Les Grandes Jorasses, L’Aiguille des Glacier, Dent du Géant to name a few). Personally, I love razor sharp mountain peaks, and this might be the best place on the globe to experience them without climbing gear and a lot of sweat and graft.

On your way down, stop at the “Pavillion” mid-station, which is home to a restaurant, a bar, a wonderful winery called Cave Mont Blanc, a museum, and an alpine cinema. But the real attraction at the mid-station in summer is the botanical garden you can walk out to and hike around with plants and flowers from all over the world. This unbelievably stunning garden is the highest in Italy, and getting up close and personal with the blooms and buzzing bees at this incredible altitude is a very special experience you will never forget.

ACCOMMODATION IN COURMAYEUR

I absolutely adore family-run hotels in Italy because they are spotless (especially the pristine, vintage tiled bathrooms), usually full of art, photos, comfy furniture, and tons of chachkis that tell you a bit about the environment, and the history of the place. But most importantly, at least for me, is the way hotels like these make you feel like you’re in a home, and that you belong there.

Run by Patrizia and Andrea Casale Brunet, Hotel Bouton d’Or (Golden Button – which is a flower that grows in the Aosta Valley) is one of these wonderful, warm, inviting places one is fortunate enough to call home from time to time, and we absolutely loved staying there (and not just because of the aforementioned breakfast smorgasbord). Besides its great location (right in the center of Courmayeur), this hotel also has lots of living space outside your room to lounge around in if you’re in the mood to mingle with other guests and staff…oh, and the mind-blowing breakfast spread, did I mention that…wait, I think I did!

 

MORE INFO ON COURMAYEUR: 

Courmayeur is part of the prestigious Best of the Alps group of luxury European ski & golf resorts. To find out more about Courmayeur go to www.bestofthealps.com or www.courmayeurmontblanc.it

Golf Club Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses is open to the general public. Green fees range from 42 Euros to 69 Euros for 9 holes of play, and 59 Euros and 99 Euros for 18 holes of play.  For more info go to www.golfcourmayeur.it .

Courmayeur has a wide selection of hotels for every budget. For our stay we chose the Hotel Bouton d’Or, a darling, 3-star boutique hotel run by the Casale Brunet family since 1972.  For more info go to www.hotelboutondor.com

Courmayeur is easily accessible via Turin Caselle National Airport (150 km), Milan’s Malpensa (212 km) and Milan’s Linate (235 km) Airports or via Geneva Airport (115 km).

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